Saturday, December 1, 2012

Day 25: Bonaire

The Emerald Princess arrived in Bonaire today bright and early at 7am this morning...not that I was up to watch it. That's too bad, too, because the approach to Bonaire is one of the prettiest ones we enjoy on these cruises. But when this itinerary is done in this order- with Aruba first instead of last, we are generally worn out after a beach day on Aruba and miss our arrival in Bonaire. When this itinerary was done in the reverse order- with Princess Cays first and Aruba last- as it usually was last winter, we arrived in Bonaire about noon. That was nice.

However, our opinions on this are not solicited. If they were, we'd want a full day on Bonaire and to skip Grenada altogether. But then, the appeal of Bonaire for us lies under the water, not above it, and not everyone is similarly impressed with this barren little island, particularly those people who don't like to get wet.

In contrast, I am happiest with my head (and my hips) underwater.

Back to today...

While I was slowly waking up, G was already out on shore, exploring the tour options and checking out the changes since we were last here in January. After I showered, I used our two way radio to contact him on shore, and he returned to the ship for us to have breakfast together in the dining room. Afterwards, he was again off exploring the area around the ship, while I went back and packed for a simple, and quick day on shore. Because of the distance to Grenada tomorrow, we sailed at 2pm today, and had to be on board by 1:30pm.

Last night at dinner, we had discussed our options for today. A highlight of Bonaire for us is taking the water taxi over to Klein (Little) Bonaire, a protected marine sanctuary just off the coast of Bonaire. But it's about a 30 minute trip there and the same back, and although we've done it on these short days in port, it's been when we've arrived at noon and hit the ground running. Arriving at 7am, it's a bit harder to get things together first thing in the morning. We also knew we would be here again in just 12 days, on our Noordam cruise, and then we will have a full day here, as well as a full day on Grenada, with a sea day in between. We decided to hold off on Klein Bonaire until then.

Eventually G and I met up at the Divi Flamingo Resort, on the water about a 10-minute walk from the ship. We were hoping to find the same free wifi they had last year, but, sadly, they now charge for it, and so we just went out on a short pier at the resort and sat in some lounge chairs under a palapa for shade. G was carrying a container filled with Indonesian food that he had picked up from a vendor in the market across the street from the ship. She does a booming business from crew members in search of something a little closer to the food they eat at home. When G had shown interest in the food, the lady who prepares it gave him a full meal, but wanted no money in return. It's hard to know what to do in these situations: do we appear to be "rich tourists" if we give them money anyway, or do we accept their kind generosity and return only sincere appreciation? In this case, G both tucked some money into a niche on her stand and offered sincere appreciation.

So G and I sat on this pier eating this divine Indonesian chicken and watching the divers and dive boats come and go at Divi Dive, the Divi Flamingo's dive operation. It was a hot, hot, hot day, and the only way to stand being outside was to be in the water or in an air conditioned vehicle. Pity those poor passengers who had booked open 4WD excursions.

We spent some time talking with a couple who were staying a the Divi Flamingo for a week of diving. Coming from Portland, Oregon, they told us it takes them FOUR flights and two days to get to Bonaire. Yikes! That's just another reason we love that we can get there by cruise ship.

Finally, the allure of the water was too great, and the day was too hot, and I slipped on my rash guard to protect my back from the intense sun and gathered up my mask and snorkel and walked right down wooden steps from the pier into the water. The beauty of Bonaire is that you can dive and snorkel from practically anywhere right off the shore. Although the coral was quite limited near the resort, the fish were fairly abundant. I spent a most enjoyable hour snorkeling around the rocks right next to shore, and took lots of videos. I hope to get fast-enough wifi to get one or two uploaded in the next few days.

Once again G was off, this time in search of Bonaire sea salt, for which the island is famous. I took the time to sit in a lounger and dry a bit before I walked back to the ship. I love that everything is so close on Bonaire that it allows us to each do our own thing, staying in touch by radio. After a quick shower, I went to the dining room for a lunch of Greek salad. G joined me about half way through, proudly showing me his new purchase of a salt grinder and actual salt rocks.

I went to Zumba at 1:30pm but left early to watch a most beautiful sailaway with G from Deck 19 on the jogging track. We've decided that when we stop watching sailaways (as we've done the past two days), stop taking food photos and stop getting off the ship at least for a short while in ports...it will be time to stop cruising.

We're not even close yet.

Photo 1: the Emerald Princess docked in Kralendjik, Bonaire

Photo 2: Indonesian food stand in the market across the street from the dock

Photo 3: plaque in the park where the market is (double click on the photo to enlarge it)

Photo 4: Kralendjik waterfront with Klein Bonaire in the distance

Photos 5 and 6: the pier at the Divi Flamingo resort where we sat and ate Indonesian food and from which I snorkeled