Sunday, December 15, 2013

Day 46: Bonaire

Captain Nick had told us yesterday, upon our departure from Grenada, that the seas would be "roly-poly" on the long trek westward to Bonaire, but that he would try to make us as comfortable as possible. Well, he did a good job of it...last night was not nearly as bouncy as that night leading into St. Thomas. Staff Captain Dominico said at last night's Captains Circle party that the strong easterly wind that was blowing us westward overnight was going to make arriving in Bonaire hard...but leaving it very easy.  That's a funny thought, and our time spent in chief Engineer Roddy McConnell's lectures has us wondering what the Christmas winds are doing to this cruise's fuel consumption. 

I simply cannot believe that I forgot to mention yesterday's big news: on Day 2 of Stollenwatch, Christmas stollen appeared. 
I really don't understand why I'm so smitten with this delicacy...I never otherwise eat breads or pastries on the ship, don't like raisins or dried fruits, would run the other direction if presented with a fruit cake. But this stuff...I simply adore it (and had TWO slices this morning for breakfast). It's also available in the IC, so, if I just knew which day was the last it's available before it disappears at the end of the holiday season, I could get several pieces from Mr. Pastry (Vladimer) to keep in a Ziploc and make them last another week or so. See...already planning ahead the best way to cope. This stuff is addictive!

We could have slept in this morning, should have slept in this morning after partying on deck last night, but, of course, did not. We were in the DaVinci Dining Room by 7:30am, and, when we were done, did some walking on the Promenade Deck. We enjoy being up on Deck 19 coming into Bonaire, but earlier in the morning we had intermittent showers, which kept the uncovered decks a bit slick. Finally, we went up to Skywalkers to observe our progress into Bonaire, and it was fun to see the spots of sunshine on the water's surface in the midst of all the rain.

Finally, by about 10:30am, the rains seemed to clear and we decided we needed to spend the day on the water. However, the strong wind disinclined us from wanting to take the water taxi over to Klein Bonaire. We wanted to snorkel off Bonaire itself. 

We arrived in Kralendjik early (no surprise with that tail wind), but, as forecasted, it did take awhile to get safely docked and gangways set out. Still, we were good to go before our scheduled arrival time of noon. We had grabbed a couple of pieces of pizza as the Emerald Princess was docking, packed pretty much everything beach-related we'd brought with us, and headed out for the day. Our goal:  to act Tru and Pat's ages (that's 74 and 84, in case you've forgotten).  I wouldn't have been a bit surprised to see them walk by geared up for a beach dive today. ;-)

In a weird twist of fate, we were driven down to Spice or Eden Beach in the same tuk tuk that Gene and Sandy had rented last time we were here. I don't know how that happened, to be honest. G knows Jack, who owns the Bike Shop on Bonaire and rents bikes and Harleys and gold carts and this one tuk, and they chatted and the next thing I knew the tuk tuk showed up driven by a most personable young guy named Edgar. 

I've learned not to question these things...after 30 years I just go with the flow.  However it happened, it was a helluva good time. Getting to Spice Beach was half the fun. 

The other half was the parrot fish whose acquaintance I made. 
Fantastic coral was in short supply at Spice Beach, but luckily, so were the spiny urchins that hang out near the Divi Flamingo Resort (I didn't see a single one today). I snorkeled all afternoon, thankfully wearing my long-sleeved rash guard, because I would otherwise have been burned to a crisp. The sun at this latitude just north of South America is intense. 




Spice Beach would only be called a beach on Bonaire, where, frankly, there are no real beaches. Instead there are sea walls bordering some trucked-in sand, always with a pier with a ladder or steps into the water.  But that's okay...the snorkeling makes up for what the beach lacks.

Edgar picked us up at 4pm, and we made our way back to the Emerald Princess along the boardwalk along the waterfront in Kralendjik. G took great pleasure in waving at everyone he knew along the way, and reveled in the attention the tuk tuk was getting.  Okay, I enjoyed it too. Our mode of transportation, and Edgar's fun attitude (he told us he was born on the Dominican Republic and when I asked him how he got to Bonaire, he said, "I have no idea" and the way he said it was harious) really was the icing on the cake today. 

We passed that same house decorated the same way as in prior years (can you believe that we've been here so often we recognize the Christmas decorations?). It's pretty clever...

Back on the ship, it finally hit me...acting like an 84-year old is exhausting!  We got cleaned up for dinner (our cabin is totally trashed tonight with everything hanging up and leaning against the walls to dry. I wouldn't be surprised if Raymond just leaves the pillow chocolates on the vanity again) and were at our table in the Michelangelo Dining Room by 5:30pm. The past two winters our table was on the starboard side, and we'd have a view of the sunset when staying late in Bonaire, but this winter we're on the port side, and instead have a view of the Kralendjik waterfront. By our 7pm sailaway we were finished with dinner and up on the Promenade Deck to watch as the lines were released and the thrusters moved us away from the dock, and finally the lights of Bonaire faded in the distance. 

Also fading into the distance...the Church of Scientology boat Free Winds. I've promised in the past to relay the story behind this old (very old) cruise ship, but maybe it's just easier for you to Google Free Winds Scientology. It has a litigious past (no surprise there) involving asbestos and thetan classes. 


Not in the mood for a show tonight (vocalist Bobby Wilson must be feeling better and up to singing in the Princess Theater, and there as been a dearth of second show options in the Explorers Lounge this cruise for some reason), we're instead up at MUTS watching the very exciting 4th quarter of the Packers v. Cowboys game, under a big moon (is it full tonight?)

Insert deep sigh of contentment here.