We awoke early, as we have done every morning (because we're asleep by 9pm, what with the overwhelming choice of TV shows to watch. ;-)). There was a bit of a sunrise today so we sat on our deck drinking coffee and tea and enjoyed it. It's been awhile since we've seen one. We assessed our local currency situation, and decided we had plenty to go out for breakfast today, something more than just pastries (as delicious as they've been). We started walking down the coastal road through the tiny village of Muri when I spotted a circle island bus coming. At that minute, we decided there was nothing we wanted more than those delicious Belgian waffles from the Waffle Shack in Avarua, just a 20-minute bus ride away. We had purchased a waterproof card good for ten bus rides for NZ$30, about US$20 and it has really come in handy.
The bus today was far less crowded than either Saturday (Punanga Nui market day) or yesterday. I guess the good weather has motivated people to get out on the endless beaches. In no time at all we were inhaling those waffles, loaded with papaya, banana, coconut, caramel sauce, ice cream and whipped cream (G) and Nutella and whipped cream (me). What a way to start the day!
We stayed in Avarua long enough to pick up some juice (we had kinda used ours up last night making those Muri Beach Blackouts when the lights went out) and caught a counterclockwise bus back to the Muri Beach Hideaway. The bus drivers are extremely friendly and helpful. We asked about bringing large suitcases on the bus (because we felt certain it wasn't allowed but wanted to hear it firsthand) and we were told we were welcome to bring them. It will just cost $2 each, or one of our 10 punches to do so, and, if we get on a counter-clockwise bus, we'll be dropped right at the airport check in counter. That certainly beats the NZ$40 we paid for our transfers when we arrived.
Once at our bungalow, we decided to kayak to the fourth motu in the Muri lagoon (the only one on the right as we face the water). It was quite a workout getting there, as we were paddling directly into the wind. We circumnavigated the entire motu and were almost blown back to shore. The water is definitely not as warm as we remember it being in French Polynesia, but it is still quite comfortable if we keep moving. We then wrestled our two kayaks back up the steps to the deck overlooking beach, another workout.
Eventually we started getting hungry, and I grilled some sandwiches made from some meat and cheese we'd picked up at a market yesterday. After lunch, I did some of my hand laundry that had piled up during our rainy days. With the wind and the warmth and the sun, it was dry by dinner time, and, it was a rare (and short-lived) occasion when everything but the clothes I had on were clean at one time. Go me!
After lunch, we spent about 90 minutes walking further west then north along the stretch of beach that circles Rarotonga. This really is a beautiful island. The huge black volcanic boulders, the white sand beaches and the iridescent water combine to make every view spectacular. I must have taken over 100 photos, but I still can't get enough of it. We didn't mean to walk as far as we did, and didn't bring the bus pass, so we backtracked and I took the same photos yet again. Tomorrow we'd like to start out doing the same walk, but, armed with a bus pass, we could walk much further. I'm not sure the beach ever gives out.
We had time for just a short rest before we needed to get as cleaned up and dressed up as we've been since we arrived in Rarotonga last Thursday. For us, that meant clean everything (which was wonderful) and long, hot showers (ditto!). On Sunday, while studying all the brochures we'd picked up, G had researched the many Polynesian night dance shows and dinners held around the island almost every evening. One of them, Te Vara Nui, was located just a 10-minute walk away in Muri and also featured a cultural demonstration village. I think we've both been feeling a bit guilty by our lack of research of any kind about the history and culture of the Cook Islands. At first glance, this island appears to be typically Polynesian with a New Zealand twist. But we could make amends AND be entertained and fed in just one fun evening out. We booked it yesterday.
Our evening started at 5pm with a two hour cultural tour and demonstration covering the history of the Cook Islands (like so many of these island groups, it was settled from the east by the superb navigators of the Marquesas Islands, now part of French Polynesia); the significance of maraes in their islanders' spiritual lives; the use of plants as medicines; the fishing culture of the Cook Islands; and clothing and weaving in Cook Island history. It was exactly the information we were looking for and, by itself would have been a great end to the day. But then we had a delicious buffet of local foods and, finally, a spectacular hour-long drumming and dance show that took place on a stage on the water. By the time we had our choice of four desserts and walked back to our bungalow, it was after 10pm and definitely the latest we've stayed out since we arrived.
Only one more full day here. Just the thought of that makes me a bit sad, but we are excited to be returning to Papeete and reboarding the Pacific Princess in less than five days.
