Monday, October 12, 2015

Day 36: In and on the water around Rarotonga

Weather be damned; today we were determined to take advantage of the water sports Rarotonga has to offer. And it was clearer today. We thought we might have seen the sun for a second or two, but there were still plenty of rain showers around. No matter...we ate breakfast on our deck and caught an early bus toward the main town of Avarua on the north coast of the island. We had scheduled a two-tank dive with Cook Island Divers, just south of town. 

A 'sort of' sunrise

We geared up (we had to rent BCDs and regulators, never my favorite thing to do, but we can't justify bringing that extra gear if we only use it a couple of times in three months) and were given a very complete safety briefing. I have to say, I am more comfortable diving with divemasters who speak and understand English perfectly!  I'll never forget the drift snorkel we did in the area called the Aquarium off Rangiroa last year. I momentarily lost sight of G and when I mentioned it to our divemaster, he said, "He is not here?  Too bad for him". I really hoped that his deep concern was simply lost in translation. ;-).

Our first dive today required a boat trip of about 35 minutes, and was at about 75-80 feet. Our second dive was inside the lagoon, and very shallow (20-25 feet). We saw several varieties of fish not seen in French Polynesia and some of the hugest clams I've ever seen. We finished our dives around noon and were famished. Something about diving does that to us. A restaurant on the main road in Avarua was recommended- the Sea Salt- for hamburgers and fish and chips, so we walked there and had a feast. They even had battered and grilled pineapple and we had to try that too. 

We caught a bus around 1:30pm and were back at the Muri Beach Hideaway by 2:15pm. We were already wet, and cold, so we decided to take out two kayaks (free at the Muri Beach Hideaway) and kayak to three of the four motus in the Muri Lagoon. I love paddling, but forget what a workout it is, not only for arms and shoulders, but abs, too. I will sleep well tonight!

We returned about 5pm, just as it started to rain again, and wrestled the kayaks back up on the deck above the beach (much trickier than sliding them down off it).  I was the lucky one who showered first, because as soon as I was finished, the entire area lost power (which means we also lost water and the ability to flush the toilet). Oh, yeah, island living at its best.

This situation called for alcohol, so we combined gin with tropical juice and made a drink we named the Muri Beach Blackout. After a couple of those, we really didn't care what was happening around us.  In fact, we sat on our deck watching the tide go out so far that the lagoon seemed to empty of water. "Isn't that what happens just before a tsunami?" I casually asked G. The fact that no one else seemed concerned comforted us enough to keep drinking.  We were hungry, too (luckily, our little two burner gas stove still worked), so we reheated leftovers for dinner. Tired and tipsy, I am being dutiful and preparing this post, though the blackout means the WiFi routers are down. I'll publish it when I can. 

I am sitting here on our deck, watching the rain fall, and am reminded, as I've been so often these last few days, of camping trips as a child when it rained non-stop and we played a hundred games of Go Fish and Crazy 8s under the dining canopy. One trip in particular sticks in my mind. Dad and my uncle bravely took a bunch of us kids (I forget how many, exactly) camping. (I think that Mom and my aunt had just had babies and so stayed home, but I was a kid, and the specifics elude me).  It rained the entire week, hard, every day. We had nothing that was dry, especially our canvas sneakers. Finally, Dad went to a laundromat and threw them all in a dryer. That worked great, except they came out as one huge tangled ball. No matter...Dad went to a local 5 and dime, bought a bunch of white shoelaces, cut the tangled ones apart and we all sat around lacing our now-dry shoes. The problem was that Dad bought one length of shoelace for everyone, regardless of shoe size. Those of us with a relatively smaller shoe size ended up triple knotting and wrapping laces around our ankles. But we survived and were left with a great memory that still makes me smile. 

Tomorrow (FINALLY) the forecast is calling for sunny and warm. We have some fun plans for the evening but nothing set for the day. I want to spend as much time as my skin will allow snorkeling in that beautiful lagoon at our doorstep, and kayak to the beach on the fourth motu offshore. We are trying to take advantage of the things that staying on an island (instead of visiting one while on a cruise) offer us, and there are many. There are trade offs, too, of course. Like one towel per person every two days that never, ever dries, intermittent power and hot water, and I've traded formalwear for a bright yellow rain poncho that I've worn non stop to stay dry and for warmth since Saturday. 

Breakfasts in the Club Restaurant and Captains Circle parties seem a thousand miles away. They are, literally. But we will meet up again on Sunday, with lots of Rapa Nui and Rarotonga memories to keep with us always. 

Life, even when it rains, even when it lacks power, even when your shoes get wet, is good. :-)