Day 39: From Rarotonga to Papeete

On our last morning on Rarotonga, I was determined not to miss the sunrise. I set the alarm for 6am and slipped out to our deck. I was just in time today, and the beautiful sunrise was worth getting up for. 

We had our usual coffee and tea on the deck, and finished up the last of the rolls and peanut butter for breakfast. We are returning to Papeete food-less, but that is fine. We know that we have plenty of options there. 

My favorite rooster at the Muri Beach Hideaway (in the back) and a decorative metal one in front

We had to be moved out of our bungalow by 10am, but were able to spend almost two hours on our deck and on the beach. That was a good thing, because we had three beers to consume (Before lunch!  Shameful!) and the last of the Bugles crumbs to feed to the menagerie. I took some time to add to my list of "'kite flying countries' by flying my Konvertible Kite on gusty Muri Beach. While the day was periodically cloudy, the sun shined brightly at times, making us more than a little sad to be leaving that gorgeous lagoon at our doorstep. 

Vina was the sweetest host possible, and, though had we booked using Booking.com, everything was handled perfectly all the way through the process, and there were no surprises (which is the best one can hope for while traveling). I would recommend the Muri Beach Hideaway to anyone, especially the Lagoon View (not the Beach Front) bungalow. 

I was ready for no surprises after our issue with Cabanas Ngahu on Rapa Nui. Cabanas Ngahu had rightfully notified Booking.com that we hadn't checked in (because they didn't want to have to pay a commission when we never stayed there). Booking.com labeled that a No Show, and charged us $560 for that. It took sending several emails and disputing the credit card charge, all a bit more difficult using questionable Internet, to get the issue resolved, but it is now behind us. And to Booking.com's credit, they offered to pay any expenses above what we would have incurred. Cost-wise, it really worked out to be the same; we lost kitchen facilities and spent more money eating out, but the room was cheaper, too. I am posting about this just to point out that things don't always go smoothly, but they do ultimately get worked out and aren't worth stressing over. However, because we travel for longer periods of time it means they have to get worked out 'on the run', and it does point out the simplicity of travel by cruise ship. 

We took the biggest risk of our trip to date by relying on the Cook Islands bus to get to the Rarotonga airport. There is a schedule- sort of- but they run on island time. And there was no guarantee that there would be space available on the bus for us and our suitcases when it did arrive. But it all fell into place, and we were at the airport by 1:00pm. G was still carrying five cans of Coke from the 12-pack he bought for less than US $7 a few days ago. He managed to horse trade them for two double ice cream cones from an ice cream truck at the airport and that was our lunch (we had already traded back our New Zealand dollars). Nothing he does surprises me anymore. ;-)

There are even chickens walking through the open air airport on Rarotonga

When the Air Tahiti counter opened, we were checked in by possibly the slowest agents I have ever seen. It was taking 8 minutes per couple (yes, I timed it)  to check in and check baggage. Once it was our turn, I saw why. The baggage labels were not electrically generated; they were the old elastic string-type. And information about our onward travel had to be typed into some sort of immigration system. And, just like last year, immigration got all worked up about our extended (35 day) stay. But we finally adequately communicated our travel plans.

The last ten days have been a bit strange...though we've stayed in Polynesia the entire time, Rapa Nui is Chilean Polynesia, and Spanish was spoken; Tahiti is French Polynesia and French is spoken; in the Cook Islands English is spoken. But in all three places, that language is mixed with a Polynesian language, and it differs a bit from island grouping to island grouping. For example, 'hello' is 'Ia Orana' in Rapa Nui and Tahiti but 'Kia Orana' in the Cook Islands. 

Even the Air Tahiti airsick bag featured a mix of French and Tahitian

While we had a nice view of the lagoon surrounding Rarotonga from the plane, it was dark by the time we flew over Moorea about 6:10pm. French Polynesia is obviously on the eastern side of this time zone; the Cook Islands are on the western side. Sunset was more than 40 minutes later there last night. 

Arriving in Papeete is more familiar every time we do it. Our Air Tahiti flight was on a small plane, and, for the first time arriving in Papeete, we had no long line at immigration.  I do have to admit that I am growing weary of filling out immigration forms on this trip. Canada, French Polynesia, Chile, French Polynesia, Cook Islands, French Polynesia. We are now good to go until we arrive in Hawaii in late November. And we've collected some nice passport stamps along the way. Anyway, we took a few minutes to take photos of the musicians and dancer that welcome every international flight. 

We held our breaths at the luggage carousel. This was the last time we might possibly lose our luggage this trip, but we're batting 1000. A short taxi ride later, we were greeted by name when we walked into the Hotel Tiare Tahiti. Easy peasy!  Just two short days until we reboard the Pacific Princess. It will be good to get home!!

Frankly. as much as we loved Rarotonga, I think we left the Cook Islands just in time. Words like 'brilliant' and 'lovely' and 'heaps' are creeping into my language. And today, G, in remarking that we've managed to do everything we've done so far without sustaining any injury, used the word "holiday" instead of vacation. My Southern husband said holiday and he wasn't talking about Halloween or Thanksgiving or Christmas.

Crikey!

Day 38: In search of a Rarotongan sunset

I have plenty of Internet data remaining and so I spent some time today uploading photos from our days on Rarotonga. You might want to re-visit the posts starting Day 32 if you're interested. 

We caught just the tail end of the sunrise this morning; either we're sleeping later or it is happening earlier or both. With absolutely no schedule for today, we lingered over tea and coffee on the deck before walking to the LBV (Le Bon Vivant) bakery via the beach. It was a gorgeous morning, and even at that time early hour there were kite surfers and kayakers on the lagoon.

I've had my eye on something at the bakery since our first day here, and decided today that it was now or never. It was a meringue-y, pavlova-y type thing, gorgeous to look at and even better to eat. It would not travel well, however, so for the first time we actually ate our breakfast pastries on the bakery's deck. As on Rapa Nui, we watched the world go by:  scooter, scooter, scooter, car, scooter, bike, dog, scooter. There must be a thousand scooters for rent on Rarotonga, and they are cheap (NZ$ 25 per day). We almost rented two Monday for the the remainder of our stay (and with our motorcycle endorsements on our drivers licenses wouldn't have needed to get a separate Cook Islands license), but decided we could see more while riding the bus. 

Food heaven, and even served topped with a flower 

I bounced back to our bungalow after all that sugar, and we needed to expend that excess energy on a nice long beach walk. We walked even further north along the west side of the island than yesterday, at least eleventy miles in the loose sand, until we were wiped out. We climbed up to the coastal road, caught a counter-clockwise bus back to Muri Beach Hideaway, and collapsed, secure in the knowledge that we had gotten in today's workout. For the first time, we sat in the wooden loungers on the deck above the beach and napped a little (yes, even me!). 

Our view while we lounged 

We awoke hungry, and we're using up the last of the food we either brought or bought. Today's lunch was peanut butter sandwiches followed by the second of the two huge papayas Vina had placed in our kitchen when we checked in. Sweet as candy, and more sugar...just what we needed. 

We snorkeled this afternoon, close to the fourth motu. The water was a little choppier today due to the strong winds from the east, so we finally gave up and just sat on the beach watching the huge waves crash on the reef. It was a bit like watching fireworks, some of them were so spectacular. 

With no firm plans for the rest of the day, we decided that, though we had seen plenty of sunrises, we needed to see a sunset before we left Rarotonga. We caught a clockwise bus over to the Edgewater Resort on the western side of the island. There are no motus there, and the reef is much closer to the beach on the western coast. 

We arrived just in time for happy hour, and extended it to include dinner, too. I drank a punch that packed a punch, with dark rum, coconut rum, peach schnapps and banana liqueur. After just one of those, I couldn't feel my lips.  Dinner was not inexpensive, but we started our week here so frugally that we had some New Zealand dollars left to spend. A side note:  though Rarotonga uses NZ dollars as its official currency, it does mint its own triangular-shaped $2 coin. It's a brilliant strategy...take a coin that costs almost nothing to produce, make it a unique shape so it's memento of a Rarotongan vacation and everyone who visits leaves with at least one, nicely supplementing the Cook Islands treasury. 

We caught a bus and arrived back at the Muri Beach Hideaway just after 8pm. After spending some time talking with our new neighbors (she's from Missouri and he's from Australia), we are falling asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the reef and wind rustling the palms for the last time tonight. Weep!

Day 37: Here comes the sun in Rarotonga

This is what a perfect day on Rarotonga is all about. Sun, sand, gorgeous blue-green water and a cultural show and dinner at the end. My fleece had finally dried out by this morning...but I no longer need it!  Nor do I need the yellow rain poncho that had been a permanent part of my attire for three straight days. We are warm (but not too), breezy (but not too) and sunny (just the right amount). 

We awoke early, as we have done every morning (because we're asleep by 9pm, what with the overwhelming choice of TV shows to watch. ;-)). There was a bit of a sunrise today so we sat on our deck drinking coffee and tea and enjoyed it. It's been awhile since we've seen one. We assessed our local currency situation, and decided we had plenty to go out for breakfast today, something more than just pastries (as delicious as they've been). We started walking down the coastal road through the tiny village of Muri when I spotted a circle island bus coming. At that minute, we decided there was nothing we wanted more than those delicious Belgian waffles from the Waffle Shack in Avarua, just a 20-minute bus ride away. We had purchased a waterproof card good for ten bus rides for NZ$30, about US$20 and it has really come in handy. 

The bus today was far less crowded than either Saturday (Punanga Nui market day) or yesterday. I guess the good weather has motivated people to get out on the endless beaches. In no time at all we were inhaling those waffles, loaded with papaya, banana, coconut, caramel sauce, ice cream and whipped cream (G) and Nutella and whipped cream (me). What a way to start the day!

Our view at breakfast in Avarua

We stayed in Avarua long enough to pick up some juice (we had kinda used ours up last night making those Muri Beach Blackouts when the lights went out) and caught a counterclockwise bus back to the Muri Beach Hideaway. The bus drivers are extremely friendly and helpful. We asked about bringing large suitcases on the bus (because we felt certain it wasn't allowed but wanted to hear it firsthand) and we were told we were welcome to bring them. It will just cost $2 each, or one of our 10 punches to do so, and, if we get on a counter-clockwise bus, we'll be dropped right at the airport check in counter. That certainly beats the NZ$40 we paid for our transfers when we arrived. 

A huge grocery store (by Rarotonga standards) in Avarua

Once at our bungalow, we decided to kayak to the fourth motu in the Muri lagoon (the only one on the right as we face the water). It was quite a workout getting there, as we were paddling directly into the wind. We circumnavigated the entire motu and were almost blown back to shore. The water is definitely not as warm as we remember it being in French Polynesia, but it is still quite comfortable if we keep moving. We then wrestled our two kayaks back up the steps to the deck overlooking beach, another workout. 

The motu we kayaked around today. 

Eventually we started getting hungry, and I grilled some sandwiches made from some meat and cheese we'd picked up at a market yesterday. After lunch, I did some of my hand laundry that had piled up during our rainy days. With the wind and the warmth and the sun, it was dry by dinner time, and, it was a rare (and short-lived) occasion when everything but the clothes I had on were clean at one time. Go me!

After lunch, we spent about 90 minutes walking further west then north along the stretch of beach that circles Rarotonga. This really is a beautiful island. The huge black volcanic boulders, the white sand beaches and the iridescent water combine to make every view spectacular.  I must have taken over 100 photos, but I still can't get enough of it. We didn't mean to walk as far as we did, and didn't bring the bus pass, so we backtracked and I took the same photos yet again. Tomorrow we'd like to start out doing the same walk, but, armed with a bus pass, we could walk much further. I'm not sure the beach ever gives out. 

Muri lagoon is so shallow that at low tide it nearly empties out

We had time for just a short rest before we needed to get as cleaned up and dressed up as we've been since we arrived in Rarotonga last Thursday. For us, that meant clean everything (which was wonderful) and long, hot showers (ditto!). On Sunday, while studying all the brochures we'd picked up, G had researched the many Polynesian night dance shows and dinners held around the island almost every evening. One of them, Te Vara Nui, was located just a 10-minute walk away in Muri and also featured a cultural demonstration village. I think we've both been feeling a bit guilty by our lack of research of any kind about the history and culture of the Cook Islands. At first glance, this island appears to be typically Polynesian with a New Zealand twist. But we could make amends AND be entertained and fed in just one fun evening out. We booked it yesterday. 

Our evening started at 5pm with a two hour cultural tour and demonstration covering the history of the Cook Islands (like so many of these island groups, it was settled from the east by the superb navigators of the Marquesas Islands, now part of French Polynesia); the significance of maraes in their islanders' spiritual lives; the use of plants as medicines; the fishing culture of the Cook Islands; and clothing and weaving in Cook Island history. It was exactly the information we were looking for and, by itself would have been a great end to the day. But then we had a delicious buffet of local foods and, finally, a spectacular hour-long drumming and dance show that took place on a stage on the water. By the time we had our choice of four desserts and walked back to our bungalow, it was after 10pm and definitely the latest we've stayed out since we arrived.

The Polynesian migration

Only one more full day here. Just the thought of that makes me a bit sad, but we are excited to be returning to Papeete and reboarding the Pacific Princess in less than five days. 

Day 36: In and on the water around Rarotonga

Weather be damned; today we were determined to take advantage of the water sports Rarotonga has to offer. And it was clearer today. We thought we might have seen the sun for a second or two, but there were still plenty of rain showers around. No matter...we ate breakfast on our deck and caught an early bus toward the main town of Avarua on the north coast of the island. We had scheduled a two-tank dive with Cook Island Divers, just south of town. 

A 'sort of' sunrise

We geared up (we had to rent BCDs and regulators, never my favorite thing to do, but we can't justify bringing that extra gear if we only use it a couple of times in three months) and were given a very complete safety briefing. I have to say, I am more comfortable diving with divemasters who speak and understand English perfectly!  I'll never forget the drift snorkel we did in the area called the Aquarium off Rangiroa last year. I momentarily lost sight of G and when I mentioned it to our divemaster, he said, "He is not here?  Too bad for him". I really hoped that his deep concern was simply lost in translation. ;-).

Our first dive today required a boat trip of about 35 minutes, and was at about 75-80 feet. Our second dive was inside the lagoon, and very shallow (20-25 feet). We saw several varieties of fish not seen in French Polynesia and some of the hugest clams I've ever seen. We finished our dives around noon and were famished. Something about diving does that to us. A restaurant on the main road in Avarua was recommended- the Sea Salt- for hamburgers and fish and chips, so we walked there and had a feast. They even had battered and grilled pineapple and we had to try that too. 

We caught a bus around 1:30pm and were back at the Muri Beach Hideaway by 2:15pm. We were already wet, and cold, so we decided to take out two kayaks (free at the Muri Beach Hideaway) and kayak to three of the four motus in the Muri Lagoon. I love paddling, but forget what a workout it is, not only for arms and shoulders, but abs, too. I will sleep well tonight!

We returned about 5pm, just as it started to rain again, and wrestled the kayaks back up on the deck above the beach (much trickier than sliding them down off it).  I was the lucky one who showered first, because as soon as I was finished, the entire area lost power (which means we also lost water and the ability to flush the toilet). Oh, yeah, island living at its best.

This situation called for alcohol, so we combined gin with tropical juice and made a drink we named the Muri Beach Blackout. After a couple of those, we really didn't care what was happening around us.  In fact, we sat on our deck watching the tide go out so far that the lagoon seemed to empty of water. "Isn't that what happens just before a tsunami?" I casually asked G. The fact that no one else seemed concerned comforted us enough to keep drinking.  We were hungry, too (luckily, our little two burner gas stove still worked), so we reheated leftovers for dinner. Tired and tipsy, I am being dutiful and preparing this post, though the blackout means the WiFi routers are down. I'll publish it when I can. 

I am sitting here on our deck, watching the rain fall, and am reminded, as I've been so often these last few days, of camping trips as a child when it rained non-stop and we played a hundred games of Go Fish and Crazy 8s under the dining canopy. One trip in particular sticks in my mind. Dad and my uncle bravely took a bunch of us kids (I forget how many, exactly) camping. (I think that Mom and my aunt had just had babies and so stayed home, but I was a kid, and the specifics elude me).  It rained the entire week, hard, every day. We had nothing that was dry, especially our canvas sneakers. Finally, Dad went to a laundromat and threw them all in a dryer. That worked great, except they came out as one huge tangled ball. No matter...Dad went to a local 5 and dime, bought a bunch of white shoelaces, cut the tangled ones apart and we all sat around lacing our now-dry shoes. The problem was that Dad bought one length of shoelace for everyone, regardless of shoe size. Those of us with a relatively smaller shoe size ended up triple knotting and wrapping laces around our ankles. But we survived and were left with a great memory that still makes me smile. 

Tomorrow (FINALLY) the forecast is calling for sunny and warm. We have some fun plans for the evening but nothing set for the day. I want to spend as much time as my skin will allow snorkeling in that beautiful lagoon at our doorstep, and kayak to the beach on the fourth motu offshore. We are trying to take advantage of the things that staying on an island (instead of visiting one while on a cruise) offer us, and there are many. There are trade offs, too, of course. Like one towel per person every two days that never, ever dries, intermittent power and hot water, and I've traded formalwear for a bright yellow rain poncho that I've worn non stop to stay dry and for warmth since Saturday. 

Breakfasts in the Club Restaurant and Captains Circle parties seem a thousand miles away. They are, literally. But we will meet up again on Sunday, with lots of Rapa Nui and Rarotonga memories to keep with us always. 

Life, even when it rains, even when it lacks power, even when your shoes get wet, is good. :-)

Day 35: A Rarotonga rest day

We didn't hear rain on the roof when we awoke, and I was hopeful for another beautiful sunrise, but...not yet. I'm patient; as long as we get another one or two before we leave, I'm happy. The weather is supposed to improve considerably by tomorrow and then even more every day after that. 

Still, our cozy bungalow and large covered deck along with the expansive lagoon views and managerie of animals at Muri Beach Hideaway saved the day. We took advantage of a momentary break in the rain to walk the couple of minutes to the nearby bakery and even I splurged on a custard doughnut today. We carried our treats back to our bungalow, made coffee and tea, and, along with one of the beautiful and large papayas Vina had in the kitchen for us when we arrived, called it breakfast. 

G is shocked by my affinity for the rooster, hens and chicks. They are keeping me highly entertained; there are four hens and countless (upwards of 15) baby chicks that seem to have doubled in size since we arrived on Thursday. It's said that travel teaches us things about ourselves.  Well, I've learned that given a 500 sq. foot bungalow and hens and chicks and a dog named Charger and I could happily live out my years...providing I have this $10 million view. 

This week's friends

We ventured out mid-afternoon, when the rain ebbed a bit, to walk down the beach and were amused by the righting of a small sunken boat by four boys. We've had a lot of rain, but not that much. I think a leak is the real culprit. We walked the length of Muri Beach, checking out all the other properties and talking with everyone else doing the same thing. Despite the weather, there were several kayakers and kite surfers in the lagoon. Finally, the wind picked up again, and G predicted an imminent rain and he was right. We made it back just in time. 

I am very much regretting that I got mustard yesterday on the sleeve and body of the only fleece I brought with me. I hand washed it out in the kitchen sink, but, given the 100% humidity, it will be days before it dries. Meanwhile, I am enduring the low-70s temps wrapped in a beach towel, and am drinking cups of hot water to stay warm. It's hard to remember that, just Friday, I got two sunburned triangles on my back during Captain Tama's motu BBQ when I mistakenly removed my rash guard in the heat of the sun. 

We spent the remainder of the afternoon on the deck, me reading one of my many books on my iPad and G reading all the brochures we've picked up along the way.  We had originally thought we might do a day trip on Air Rarotonga to the island of Aitutaki; its lagoon is supposed to be even prettier than Bora Bora's. But, given the rainy weekend we've had, we are re-thinking that plan.  There are still several things we want to do on Rarotonga, and the Aitutaki trip is very expensive. That same money would go far during our remaining three days here. G is making tentative plans for cultural dinner shows and happy hours. All we need now is some sun. 

The Muri market was supposed to take place again tonight just a five minute walk away, but we weren't certain it would, given the weather. We also wanted to cook the last of the ground New Zealand beef we'd bought at a little market on Friday. It had come in an unmarked packaged, a big ball of beef, frozen hard in a thin plastic bag. We had hesitated at the amount- .75 kg, or about 1.6 pounds, which was more than we wanted, but a fellow shopper warned us not to pass it by. Apparently, finding beef in one of the mini markets is akin to finding the Holy Grail. G cooked it up and we made a salad for dinner and opened a bag of Diamond Sweet and Salty mixed nuts that we've had since Hilo for dessert. 

We were early to bed soon after the sun set, watching videos we've saved on our iDevices. The only TV channel is broadcasting religious programming, no doubt to be followed by bereavement TV.  House of Cards holds just a slight bit more appeal. ;-)

Day 34: Rainy Rarotonga

I really must stop falling in love with places further and further from home!!

We awoke this morning at 6am to the sound of a light rain falling. I slid open the wooden louvered doors covering the wide sliding glass doors at the front of our bungalow to check for a sunrise. There wasn't one (too cloudy), but I did spot Charger, Vina's adopted German Shepard, sitting on my cushioned deck chair looking at the lagoon and waiting for the sunrise, too. That was a picture!  We seem to be collecting animal friends on this trip, and right now I am looking at a veritable menagerie: a rooster, several hens, even more baby chicks, Vina's cat, and, of course, Charger is again sitting on our deck staying dry (but we've reclaimed our chairs). You don't get experiences like this on a cruise ship!

We enjoyed our coffee and tea totally dry and snugly on our covered deck, and G walked over to the bakery less than five minutes away to get us some fresh things for breakfast. While he was gone, I finally signed into WiFi for the first time and purchased a data plan through Blue Sky Telecom. I purchased the largest plan- 1250 Mb for NZ $50 (about US$ 33)- not having any idea of how much data we'd use. At home we have unlimited data through AT&T but are usually on WiFi. I may get some photos uploaded after all, just before we leave, if I have data remaining. But it was wonderful to receive emails from Mom and blog readers (thank you all!)...and the twins!  Their fall break started Friday, and, I have a feeling that their mom commanded some writing practice. McGee's was typically a bit more sensitive but he did regale me about his latest injury (landing him with two black eyes). McGuy's was all about sports and scores. I miss them. :-(

We had big plans for the morning that we figured would include food (they did) and so didn't eat a heavy breakfast. Every Saturday morning, there is a very large market in the only real town of Avarua, on the north coast of Rarotonga where the airport is, and we, as well as pretty much everyone else, were heading there. First, though, I took my second, newer (but still without a chip) ATM card to the local ATM and it worked fine this time. Success!  The downfall is that I was charged a 10% ATM fee and then a 3% international transaction fee (the latte is customary with my ATM card). The end result is that I received a horrible rate of exchange but we do have some breathing room and were able to splurge a little today. We had figured that G's original NZ$ could get us through- barely- if we just spent money on necessities and tried to find places that take credit cards (they are rare). Now we can once again live it up (a little). 

Luckily, the rain stopped as we were walking to the circle island bus just a minute or so from our bungalow, and, though the sun did not come out, the day was warm and pleasant. It was standing room only on the bus by the time we boarded...the Avarua market was the place to be!  There are only two bus routes on Rarotonga:  clockwise and counterclockwise on the coastal road. Both run every hour and, for locations such as Muri, located at about 5 o'clock on the island, either one works fine. This morning the counter-clockwise bus came by first, so that's the one we took. 

It was about a 20 minute ride to Avarua and we were let off the bus in the midst of the action. There were probably 50 or more booths plus trucks and trailers set up, and live music and cultural presentations. There were lots of handicrafts and souvenirs, but also farmers' fruits and vegetables and lots of food trucks to choose from. We walked around for a couple of hours and settled on a truck selling waffles topped with a choice of fruit, sauce, coconut and ice cream. Yummmm!  We first split one, but were joined at our table by a couple from New Zealand who purchased one each and that sounded like a fine idea. So G returned for a second one and we split that too. It was the first splurge we've had since our first night on Rapa Nui (a lifetime ago) , aside from tiny packs of M&Ms we received on our LAN flights. 

The market wrapped up by noon, and, at about the same time, it began to rain again. We went into a grocery store (a reasonably well stocked one) in Avarua and purchased beverages for our bungalow, and then caught a counter clockwise bus back to the Muri Beach area. Our bus driver provided the best entertainment we've seen yet. He was a microphoned Polynesian who sang songs and told jokes and led singalongs...and drove the bus barefoot. He did have flip flops, mismatched ones, but they were set off to the side. What a hoot!

The rain kept up the rest of the day. We are so lucky that, even when it rains, we have a beautiful view of the Muri lagoon and the waves crashing on the reef. And even with no sun, the blue-green colors of the lagoon still pop. G cooked hamburgers (he was going to use the BBQ grill on the property but, given the rain, cooked them on our two burner gas cooktop instead) and we used split rolls as buns (they don't have hamburger buns) and we ate them, dry and cozy, along with potato salad on our deck. The dinner entertainment was Charger and the hens and chicks...and watching a few brave stand up paddleboarders in the lagoon. 

We decided, on today's bus ride that fully traveled the coastal road, that we are staying in the best location at the best property on the island, though it is certainly relatively moderately priced. Some of the properties have a motu right offshore, blocking their views of the reef and sunrises. We look straight out to the reef, with a motu on either side, with a view that can't be beat. Rain is forecasted again for tomorrow but clearing starts Monday and then it should be sunny for the remainder of our time here. No matter...we're enjoying this regardless of the weather!

World Cup Rugby is all that is being talked about on the island, and our one TV channel is broadcasting Australia vs. Wales tonight. G is inside watching it while I am still watching the waves from our deck. Every so often, G shouts something about the game that he must be hearing the announcers say ('cause he's never watched rugby in his life). Mostly, I think he's just happy to have even one TV channel in English. Those non-stop Love Boat re-runs on the Pacific Princess are sounding better every day. 

Day 33: Wasting away again on Rarotonga

I was awakened from a deep sleep by G shaking me gently and saying "Hurry!  Come see this!".  He led me to the wide open sliding glass door at the front of our bungalow and I couldn't believe what I was seeing. The sunrise was occurring right in front of the Muri Beach Hideaway and the entire sky was lit up in pinks and oranges. I grabbed my iPhone and stepped out only as far as our covered deck ('cause I wasn't exactly decent) and took a photo that has to be seen to be believed. No, even seeing it won't be enough; everyone will think I Photoshopped it but, hand to heart, I'd didn't.

Our first sunrise

G had already been exploring the contents of our kitchen and was excited that it is equipped with an induction hot water kettle that heats water to boiling in about 30 seconds.  He made himself some instant coffee and I made tea and we sat out on our deck for the first of many times today, watching as the sky continued to change colors. What a nice way to start the day!

We eventually showered and attended to morning ablutions (Counter space!  We have counter space!  And hot water and strong water pressure and a sewage system that can handle toilet paper!!) and then set out to find something for breakfast. Right across the road is a bakery that was highly recommended on Trip Advisor, and when we couldn't find eggs in any of the little markets nearby, we returned there and selected a couple of pastries and some yogurt and carried it all back to our deck. Really...why would we want to eat anywhere else but where we have peace and quiet and a gorgeous view?

On the way back to our bungalow, we walked down the next side street to the waterfront where the office of Captain Tama's lagoon cruises is located. Captain Tama is a legend in Rarotonga, and he offers a snorkel trip/ motu BBQ/ Polynesian entertainment combo that is very popular. We signed up for the trip at 11am today and returned to the Muri Beach Hideaway via a short walk down the beach. 

G commented that what we were doing- having breakfast on a covered deck while enjoying the view- is exactly what we do at home. Maybe that's why I'm enjoying this side trip so much. It just feels so comfortable. We eventually gathered up our snorkel gear and walked back to Captain Tama's to board our glass bottom boat. We first went west along the southern Rarotonga coastline to snorkel, and I was fascinated by all the fish varieties I'd never before seen, in about only 15 feet of water.  Most fun was the huge (about 6-8 feet long) moray eel that our divemaster could coax out using fish parts. The water was not cold but it was definitely cooler than in French Polynesia, at almost the same latitude. 

Hitchhikers

We stayed in the water for about an hour and then cruised back past the first motu (which lies to the right of the Muri Beach Hideaway to the second one (on Muri Beach Hideaway's left). There was beach there where people were grilling blue fin tuna and onions and bananas.  We soon ate, and enjoyed potato salad and coleslaw and fresh papaya and coconut, too. Lunch was delicious (and healthy!  We're finally getting some protein!), and we really enjoyed talking with some of our fellow participants. Most people here are from New Zealand (Auckland is only a 3-4 hour flight from here, though it's a day ahead) but there are many from Australia, too. We even met a couple from Oregon today, but on Rarotonga it is our accent that attracts attention.

Afterward, there was a wonderful cultural demonstration that seemed to combine a little of everything:  coconut palm tree climbing with bare feet, a demonstration of husking and opening a coconut, pareo tying and live music. Captain Tama is the Rarotonga's version of Patrick on Bora Bora, just not as fancy (and less than half the price). It was a fun afternoon. 

We returned to our bungalow by 3:30pm and I washed my stuff out and either hung it on the little 4-line clothesline behind our bungalow (yep Mom, I used a clothesline!!) or set it on our deck to dry. That we can safely leave things out there overnight without fear of theft is a real bonus on this island. 

And that was as far as we went today. G had bought a case of beer this morning and we enjoyed some of that as well as our leftovers from last night's market for dinner. Even the second half of my seafood pasta made for a huge serving, but I didn't want to hold it over for a third day. We sat on the cushioned wooden deck chairs in our swimsuits with our feet propped up on the railing, mesmerized by the repetition of the waves crashing on the reef. Eating dinner in a swimsuit...that's my idea of a vacation!  

It started to sprinkle around 8pm and we came inside for the night. Two days of rain are forecasted; followed by better weather starting Monday. I will cope just fine; I have yet to read a single book since we left home. But I'm a little concerned about my action man. We do have a TV, but it gets only one channel. G turned it on tonight to find, at least at that moment, that it was the bereavement channel. Really. While a choir softly sang Eric Clapton's Tears in Heaven in the background, obituary after obituary was shown on TV and an announcer read the names of the deceased and relayed the date, time and place of memorial services. We had just walked past a funeral procession this morning. The casket was carried on the back of a flatbed truck while family and friends also sat on the back of that truck and two others, legs dangling off the sides and singing. 

When was the last time we saw something for the first time? Something tells me we saw it for the last time, too. ;-)

Day 32 (continued): Rarotonga and the Muri Beach Hideaway

I'll start off with a confession:  it is already the next morning as I type this. We've just watched one of the most beautiful sunrises we've ever seen, G is showering and I am having tea on our deck. But that's for tomorrow's...er, tonight's post. Not that it matters, because we still haven't figured out Internet. But back to yesterday...

In a day that involved two hotels, two taxis, two immigration lines and one flight, we sailed through with no issues except one at the very end. In the life of a traveler, that's pretty good luck. And we are settled into our beautiful (and I mean beautiful) bungalow on what must be among the prettiest islands in the world listening to the waves crashing thunderously on the reef surrounding the Muri Beach lagoon.  It was a good day. 

We set an alarm this morning for 6am, but...why?  We are still waking up around 4am every day. I wish we could break that habit!  We went to breakfast when the cafe opened at 6:30am and, in a scene reminiscent of Oliver Twist, I bravely asked, "Please, madam, may we have some eggs?"  And, voila!, we received eggs (either scrambled or fried) in addition to juice and fruit and baguette and croissant (sinfully delicious ones) and coffee or tea. Sure wish I had been bold enough to ask two days ago!

We had to get our packing straight, and, now that you know our travel plans, let me tell you about the luggage we have scattered around the South Pacific.  Keeping track of what is where has become an impossible exercise. At this point, things are either with us...or they're not. Where they are is beside the point.

We had brought four large suitcases from home, none of them weighing more than 35 pounds or so, but the number of suitcases was key. Our plan was to leave one containing our formal and dinner wear on the Pacific Princess (which had to be sanctioned all the way up to the staff captain), one at the Hotel Tiare Tahiti and then take two with us to Easter Island. The Hotel Tiare Tahiti suitcase contained snorkel and beach gear and three Swimways floats. We brought two our usual, smaller floats (they're called Papasans) and also a longer lounger. The suitcases we took to Rapa Nui contained hiking shoes, warm clothes, rain ponchos and walking sticks. This morning we packed a suitcase with those items (now clean and fresh!) and left it at the Hotel Tiare Tahiti and instead brought the beach suitcase with us and used our second suitcase for clothes and toiletries. Clothes I've brought to Rarotonga?  Two swimsuits, two pairs of shorts and three t-shirts, all quick dry. This is very casual living.  

Today we even had to leave our carry ons at the Hotel Tiare Tahiti. Air Tahiti limits carry ons to 11 pounds each and they must fit in the small overhead compartments of an ATR-72 aircraft. Neither of ours could begin to qualify. So G used the beach bag as his carry on and I used my backpack and it all worked out. 

We finished packing just before 9am, and the hotel had called for a taxi for us at that time. Any other morning we would have simply walked out and hailed one, but with the Pacific Princess disembarking passengers this morning, we wanted to have something firm lined up. Today's daytime taxi fare was only 2000 XPF, about $20; and we were at the airport before 9:30am. It was the first time we'd been in Papeete's Faa'a airport during daylight hours. It's actually pretty nice, and has a beautiful mural just outside the immigration area. 

We were getting very excited about our flight to Rarotonga. The weather today was perfect and we would by flying low over Tahiti's neighboring island of Moorea. These tickets to Rarotonga were not cheap, pricier than our tickets to Rapa Nui. (I think they were US $325 pp each way, but, again, they were certainly cheaper than flying to Rarotonga from home...)  But our flight around Moorea at low altitude after just taking off from Papeete made them a value. We'd have paid that much for a helicopter ride over the same area without the ride to Rarotonga too. I gave G the coveted window seat but was a verbal back seat driver. "Take that picture!  And that one!  Don't worry about framing it; just take it and we'll sort it out later!"  

The east coast of Moorea

The north coast of Moorea with Cooks Bay on the left and Opunohu Bay on the right

Those familiar motus off the north west coast of Moorea. The one on the right is where G spent quality time with Stevie Stingray. 

G may have wished he was sitting on the aisle instead...until, upon our approach to Rarotonga when he spotted two breaching whales in the water just below the aircraft that I couldn't see. But what we could both see...this island is tiny. It is a spit of land, just 24 sq. miles, mostly mountainous with a coastal road.  But the lagoon, and the four motus off the Muri Beach area, are magnificent. 

The whole of Rarotonga with the Muri lagoon on the left.  

The four motus in the Muri lagoon. Muri Beach Hideaway is located between the top one and the second one. 

Source:  Maps.me

Source:  Maps.me

We were momentarily concerned about getting our few remaining Dinty Moores (still with us because we'd ended up without a microwave on Rapa Nui), and jar of peanut butter onto the island so we queued up in the Not Sure line at customs and 'fessed up'. We didn't even have to open the suitcase; if it was pre-packaged and not fresh, we were good to go. We've been working with Vina at the Muri Beach Hideaway, who, with her family, owns the tiny resort. She had emailed a day ago with all the specifics regarding who to ask for about our transfer. Native-born Henry was an entertaining driver as we, along with two other couples (one from Switzerland and one from the Czech Republic) were driven along the coastal road- the only road- south down to the Muri Beach area. He even phoned each property owner ahead to let them know that he'd soon be dropping off their guest, and we were met and welcomed personally by Vina. 

Muri Beach Hideaway is exactly as shown on their video, but the atmosphere of the property is even better. There are only five units:  one directly beachfront (we couldn't get that one because it was already reserved and are now very happy we couldn't,  its deck has no privacy and is feet away from the deck on the next property); ours, the angled one directly behind, which is beach and pool view (we can see the lagoon from our bed!); one more behind us that is pool view and two in the back of the property. As far as I can tell, they are all built exactly the same: a small but modern kitchen, the largest bathroom we've had since we left home (Counter space!  We have counter space!!), and the bedroom/ sitting area which opens onto a large deck with wooden tables and chairs covered with a pandanus leaf roof. Two of the four motus, each with long beaches, are right offshore, but do not block our view of the reef.  Though kayaks are provided free of charge, the crystal blue lagoon is so shallow that we could almost walk over to the motus. 

The view from our deck. 

Vina even supplies a few things in the kitchen to get started:  two large papayas, coffee, tea, sugar, milk, juice and bottled water, though the tap water is totally safe to drink.

Wucy...we're home!  

She told us that the four-times-weekly street market was just a five minute walk away, and would run from 5pm to 8pm. We opened our suitcases, unpacked just a few things, and walked down. G had already gotten some New Zealand dollars before we left home to tide us over until we reached an ATM. NZ$400 are worth about US$ 270, not enough to last the week but enough to pay for our transfer to the Muri Beach Hideaway and get us started. I took an ATM card with us and tried to get cash at the ATM in Muri, but it was promptly refused. Oh no!  I have a newer card (but it also lacks a chip) that I'll try, but, meanwhile, we're good for a few days and will try to use a credit card whenever possible. 

There was quite a crowd at the market last night, and I went to the tent with the longest line and got a delicious seafood pasta in coconut cream for NZ$15 (enough for two meals). G got chicken kabobs on fried rice for NZ$10. We happily sat at communal picnic tables, listening to music ranging from local stuff to Elvis Presley and enjoying the totally laid back atmosphere. That everyone speaks English (albeit with a New Zealand accent, so if they talk quickly things do get lost in translation) certainly makes this an easy place to visit. 

We fell asleep surrounded by the sound of waves crashing on the reef in the distance. This is our first island stay (ie not on a cruise ship) in 15 years, and it's a wonderful change from the familiar. I know cruising remains G's very favorite way to travel, but, to me, this little cottage on beautiful Muri Lagoon is a slice of heaven on earth. 

Day 32: More virgin islands...we're off on yet another Polynesian adventure!

The Pacific Princess cruising into Papeete Harbor last night may have been a beautiful sight, but we had to view it dispassionately. No, we weren't watching our next home arrive; the ship will be sailing without us on board when it leaves Papeete tomorrow at 5pm.  We're also not continuing our stay in French Polynesia. Instead, we're heading back to Faa'a airport this morning to catch a 12:15pm flight to our next destination, 755 miles to the west. 

While our decision to fly to Rapa Nui from Papeete was made after only two minutes of deliberation and finalized by June 1, over the following month there was a slow realization on my part that first using the Pacific Princess to get to Papeete, and then using Papeete as a base for more extended Polynesian travel was a most excellent idea for this long-flight-averse traveler.  Having visited the three corners of the Polynesian Triangle, it was time to further explore its interior. We've now spent months in French Polynesia, and visited Samoa and American Samoa twice; the obvious choice for another Papeete 'side trip' was the Cook Islands. Though they are an independent country in Free Association with New Zealand, their largest island of Rarotonga is only a 2 hour flight from Papeete, and, coincidentally, Air Tahiti operates one flight weekly, on Thursdays, between Papeete and Rarotonga (sounds familiar, no?).

Source:  Graphicmaps.com

Getting G on board with a second departure from our usual "cruise ship as a second home" MO didn't take a lot of effort, but I could have made it even easier for myself. When I finally stopped talking and simply showed him pics of the Muri lagoon on the southeastern corner of Rarotonga...

Source:  http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g1166723-d4461191-i69426062-Muri_Shores-Muri_Rarotonga_Southern_Cook_Islands.html

...we were of one mind that this was a place we needed to see, especially since we would be 'in the neighborhood'.  As with Rapa Nui, we will never again have the opportunity to visit the Cook Islands at a fraction of the time and expense of flying there from home.  G's only stipulation was that we make the trip immediately following our week on Easter Island. He did not want to be repeatedly embarking and disembarking the Pacific Princess; once he reboarded the ship and unpacked again, he wanted to stay put until it reached Los Angeles on December 3. That decided the timing of our side-trip: October 8 to October 15. We'll be returning to the Hotel Tiare Tahiti next Thursday, and reboarding the Pacific Princess during its next turnaround in Papeete on Sunday, October 18. When it returns to Papeete the evening before, we'll be so excited that we'll be standing on the quayside waving lighted batons to guide it in. ;-)

That we are able to fit in these two side trips, both of them requiring flights that operate just once a week but on different days, within the constraints of two 10-night Pacific Princess cruises made all of this possible. To us, that means it was meant to be. 

Our Cook Islands research pointed us to Muri Beach Hideaway on the Muri lagoon on Rarotonga for our stay.  The reviews on both Booking.com and TripAdvisor were glowing, and the location (right on the beach) and full kitchen sounded very appealing. (May we have better luck this time around!) Once our Cook Islands decision was made, we moved quickly, booking a lagoon-view bungalow online and then reserving our round trip air between Papeete and Rarotonga on Air Tahiti (a smaller, inter-island airline not related to Air Tahiti Nui). A week on a beach in the Cook Islands; we're so there! Well...almost. One more flight over empty miles of Pacific Ocean comes first, but this time it's only two daylight-hours long (and thankfully in the same time zone). We can do this!

Source: Muribeachhideaway.com

Internet on Rarotonga, much like internet on Easter Island, will be hard to come by and very slow. Worse yet, we'll have to pay for it. And even worse again, the charge will be based on data usage, not time (which means I'll be uploading few/no pics!!). But I'll again continue to compose posts that might not be published until we return to Tahiti next Thursday. How far have we sunk in the world of wifi when Papeete is the best we can hope for?

But, in the world of travel, this adventure is priceless. 

Life is good. :-)