Day 148: Princess Cays

Today was in the 13 of the top 5 days of the entire winter. ;-)

Things did not look too promising when we first walked out on the Terrace Deck en route to the Horizon Court Buffet. The Emerald Princess was just rounding the southern tip of Eleuthera, and the lighthouse, as well as the small, unconnected islets that stretch off the end of the island were clearly visible. What wasn't visible was the sun; it looked rather grey and gloomy. I was disheartened. We had big plans for the day. 

We ate a quick and light breakfast in the buffet and then went back to our cabin to back for an easy beach day. I left behind my snorkel gear, though. Though I was much improved today, I did not feel well enough to want to breathe through a snorkel. We were on the very first tender to the island, and immediately left the Princess property and walked behind the fence to where the locals sell trinkets and handicrafts.

I had brought all of our gold mesh bags filled with Elite toiletries (10 of them!) and started walking down one side of the stalls and handing them to the ladies selling their wares. They were thrilled, and, as I walked back when I was done, several of them called me over and handed me small gifts in return, and gave me hugs. We left Coke tumblers from purchasing the soda package with the grandmother of a boy (now a teen) we had met years ago when he directed us back to Princess Cays on one of our rambling walks. 

The coolest things I was gifted were earrings and a necklace, tiny glass dolphins filled with pink Bahamian sand. I love them!!

By the time I was finished, our group for our excursion today, with Eleuthera Tours, had started to gather. Kristel from Eleuthera Tours is the one who gave us a ride back to the ship last cruise when we had walked down to the lighthouse. She and her husband, native Bahamian Donald, offer all sorts of tours on the island. The plan for today was to ride(!!!!) the three miles down to Lighthouse Beach and then have several hours to explore, and enjoy a picnic of local Bahamian food and drink on the beach. (I think I was most excited about the ride part of all this!!) 

The cost for this 5-hour tour was $90pp (www.eleutheratours.com). 

I can tell you, after riding down to the southern point in a 4 wheel drive vehicle, that it was not my imagination. This is one really rough road, so rough that it took us about 30 minutes to drive the three miles. But we enjoyed the bragging rights we had when the others we were with (seven ladies all from our home state) couldn't believe we've walked it several times in the past. 

It was a wonderful thing to arrive at the Caribbean beach still full of energy. G was a Pied Piper and led the others across the tidal pools and up to the lighthouse, but I took off in the exact opposite direction. I've always wanted to know what lies beyond the rocks on the northern end of the Caribbean side beach. And I love to walk on a beach when mine are the only footprints. 

I walked the length of the first beach, looking all along the way for any beach treasures. This was where I had found a perfect sand dollar on my first visit; I've never been that lucky since, and wasn't today, either. Once at the end, I carefully picked my way across the rocks and tidal pools only to find another length of empty, pristine beach. From this point, I could see the very top of the Emerald Princess at anchor off Princess Cays. 

I walked the full length of this beach too, loving the peace and sound of the waves crashing. The sun had come out and the water was a brilliant blue color. Somewhere along this beach I began to wonder why the heck we live where we do, in the middle of the country, when we are both so drawn to beaches, especially remote beaches. But we do, and we love it there, too. 

At the end of the second beach was a rock cliff that I could have scaled if I hadn't been wearing Tevas, but I decided that was the end of my journey. I turned around and walked back to where Donald was building a fire to cook our lunch and Kristel was pouring rum punches and other beverages for the rest of the group, who had returned from exploring. I had packed my Konvertible Kite and opened it up, and it immediately caught the wind. I got so warm flying the kite in the sun that I first stood in the water, and then eventually walked out to a rock in the water and sat on it while holding the string reel. Heaven!

That kite had gotten around this winter, and had been flown as far west as Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, as far south as Rapa Nui (Easter Island) and as far east as Eleuthera in the Bahamas. What a winter we've had!!

Eventually I decided it was time to join the others in enjoying some of Kristel's rum punch and pulled a chair out to the beach. Donald had already set the several tables we were using with vinyl tablecloths and colorful plates, and decorated the tabletops with flowers, shells and coral. It was rustically beautiful and perfect for the beach location. 

G and Donald

Around 12:30pm Donald called us to lunch. Our choices (we had made them when we reserved the excursion) were conch, fish or BBQ chicken. I chose conch and G chose the chicken and everything was served with Bahamian rice and coleslaw. Donald had caught the conch and fish last night, and Kristel made everything from scratch and it was all absolutely delicious. I was on to my second rum punch by then, and could no longer feel my lips, but, hey, I didn't have to walk back!!

At 2pm, everything was cleaned up and packed up and we began the ride back to the ship. Also not my imagination:  it is a slight but steady uphill climb on the first part of the walk back. Of course, it's usually after noon by the time we start back when we walk, and the sun is generally bright and hot. Riding on the back of a 4WD truck in cushioned seats is much better. 

Kristel and Donald returned us to Princess Cays around 2:30pm, and after hugs goodbye, we discovered the line for the tender back to the ship was ridiculously long right then. Not interested in standing in it, we found two nearby loungers in the shade and made ourselves comfortable. The two piece local band was still playing and the sun was shining and it was a perfect end to our perfect day on the beach. We returned to the ship on the last tender of the last day of the last cruise of our winter at sea. 

Seldom early, never late. That's our cruising motto. ;-)

Once back on the ship, G showered first and went up to Skywalkers to watch our departure from the island. I joined him by 5pm and we watched as the Emerald Princess rounded the southern tip of Eleuthera and started its journey along the island's 110-mile long eastern coast. We enjoyed that view and the sunset from our dinner table in the Michelangelo Dining Room. The last supper!  G shocked me by ordering tamarind salmon, and said he actually enjoyed it. We did not know until tonight that we could have been ordering the old 'always available' salmon and chicken breast even though it is no longer on the menu. I've enjoyed salmon twice a cruise on these short cruises, but, on a longer cruise, I would definitely have ordered the 'off-menu' salmon. 

We took a few minutes after dinner to watch balancing act La Paire perform in the Piazza with Rocco (Mr. Six Pack) and his wife. At one point, Rocco lies flat on the floor and outstretches his arms over his head. His wife stands on his hands and he lifts her and pulls himself first to a sitting position and then to a standing position with her still standing on his outstretched arms, and then reverses that back to the floor. I simply cannot believe his strength. He must work out for hours every day. 

We needed to get started with our packing by then, and skipped tonight's Voice of the Ocean to return to the cabin. G always says it will just take five minutes to pack, but that is so not true. At 10:30pm we are just finishing it up. We are using EZ Check and had our boarding passes and luggage tags delivered to our cabin about 8pm. We will set our four (grrrr) suitcases outside our cabin door tonight and not see them again until they come off the baggage carousel at our home airport. For $20pp, we think this is the best deal around when traveling with lots of luggage.

It is hard to believe that our two months on the Emerald Princess are over, and that our sixth winter at sea is behind us.  G commented tonight, while packing, that he doesn't know how in the world we managed packing for our South Pacific trip. It was quite a logistical nightmare, with suitcases spread across two islands and the Pacific Princess. Coming on board the Emerald Princess and staying in the same cabin for two months has been a cakewalk in comparison. But we wouldn't change a thing about our winter. It's been the most amazing adventure of our lives. 

Five years after our first winter at sea, life is still good. :-)

Day 136: Princess Cays (aka the Eleuthera Death March)

Today was one of the 11 days on the list of the five best days of the winter. ;-) And I really, really needed it to be. What a difference a day makes. Actually, what a difference a night makes, specifically a good night's sleep. Sure, we were helped along by Ambien last night (we were that desperate), coupled with the fact that it wasn't as rocky back here in our cabin (that has sadly changed tonight), and I awoke feeling bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and ready to take on another island.

Before I go into our day, though, I must give a shout-out to friend Suzan who talked me down off the ledge yesterday when I was ready to pack up and go home...if only I could have found airfare cheaper than $1100. Of all days for us to not have a pre-booked flight home! I was all "I miss my bed. I miss my bathroom. I miss my shower. I miss the twins" (who had already texted me about today's playoff games for their basketball league and asking when I was coming home...neither of which especially helped my homesickness). And Suzan acknowledged that I had been away for home a lot since September and it was normal to be homesick but what a great itinerary this cruise had and she and Greg were wishing they were here and... Well, it was exactly what I needed to hear. And sleep was exactly what I needed to do. It was a different world today. 

So enthused was I this morning about this cruise that lies ahead of us that I suggested to G over breakfast in the DaVinci Dining Room that we really should do the hike down to the lighthouse on the southern end of Eleuthera, the Bahamian island where Princess Cays is located. Really. I guess I kind of expected him to decline my offer, telling me was more important for us to just relax and enjoy the beach today. Which he didn't. Instead, he was back in the cabin packing for a hike before I even finished eating. There was no turning back. 

We were on an early tender to shore and I was talking with an older couple on the way to the island. They asked why I was carrying my walking sticks and I told them of our plans for the day. "Oh, you're doing the Eleuthera Death March", the lady said. They had stayed on Eleuthera 30 years ago and drove as far as they could take a car to the southern end of the island, and then walked the rest of the way to the lighthouse. Apparently that hike hasn't improved over the years. And also apparently, it's not just me who thinks it's a rough way to get some exercise. 

We left a note with the senior security officer on the tender pier about who we were and where we were going and what time we expected to return (in case they had to go and pick up the pieces), and started off at 9:45am. In one way, it hadn't changed since we last did this; the road is not in any better shape. However, in another way, it was a totally different sport. Unlike the days when we would not see another person for the five hours we'd be away from Princess Cays, today we were passed by nearly 20 dune buggies and a few 4-WD vehicles along the way. 

Eleuthera near Princess Cays looks like this. It closes in with brush and jungle going south. 

Everyone offered us a ride, with the lady driving the support vehicle for the dune buggies asking us if we knew what we were getting into. Oh yes, too well. We declined all offers of aid, and offered it instead. G assisted a guy in putting the chain back on one of the dune buggies when it broke down. 

My walking sticks saved me from any stumbles or turned ankles on the very rough sections of the road. We didn't encounter a single mosquito, though we were well covered with DEET, and, though it was mostly sunny, the high was probably in the mid-70s, so we were never uncomfortably warm. 

Sometimes the road is nicely sandy like this...

...but most of the time it is rough like this. 

Our first glimpse of palm trees after well over an hour of walking told us we were almost there, and even though this adventure was not new to us, there is nothing as beautiful as the first view of the beach on the Caribbean side of the southern point. When we crossed the dune overlooking it and walked the whole length of the beach, ours were the only footprints on the entire beach. That is a spectacular feeling. 

Finally...a beach!

The Caribbean-side beach

I may get this one printed and framed for the bathroom at home to propel me through my days of work!

At the end of the beach, by the tidal pools etched out of the rough coral, we finally encountered the people we had seen going down to the lighthouse. The dune buggies were parked there (they used to go over the dunes to Lighthouse Beach on the Atlantic side, but it was simply too rough for the dune buggies), and the participants on that excursion were just returning from climbing up to the lighthouse. And a group of six people from the Eleuthera Tours excursion had also just finished exploring the lighthouse and were settling down to have lunch on the beach. Their guide, Kristel, was very impressed we had walked down from Princess Cays, and offered us a ride back in a couple of hours when they left. We declined...then. 

We used to see nothing and no one...now it's a parking lot. 

The coral tidal pools at the end of the Caribbean side beach

G and I carefully picked our way across the sharp coral tidal pools on the southern end of the Caribbean beach and climbed up the path that leads to the now-defunct lighthouse on the cliff overlooking the southern tip of Eleuthera. We commented that, when we first did this hike five or so years ago, the path was almost indiscernible amongst the brush. Now it is clearly visible, but it is still rough in spots and partially covered with decaying vegetation. 

I'm always afraid we're going to go to the lighthouse one year and see it closed off or repaired, a safety measure with all the people now visiting it on excursions. But, thankfully, nothing had been changed. The wooden floor is still rotted, the wooden ladder to the loft is still there. We explored a bit and then picked our way now to the narrow pocket beach that disappears entirely at high tide. As we scaled the rock wall going down to that beach, I couldn't help but wonder how many more years we'd be able to do that. 

G, of course, had to stop my heart by going out on the very end of the cliff at the end of the island; and then we climbed down the rocks leading to Lighthouse Beach on the Atlantic side. A rope railing here, and a rope at the top of the cliff overlooking the pocket beach, were the only safety improvements we saw. I'm glad it hasn't changed too much. 

Lighthouse Beach on the Atlantic side

We sat on the sand for awhile, and then climbed across the coral caves to a small cave that is impossible to access during high tide, but we were lucky to be there at low tide today. We could see a ship anchored at a Half Moon Cay on Little San Salvador Island about 15-20 miles away. And there were a couple of people on the far end of that beach. But mostly it was just us, and the sound of the waves. Absolute heaven. 

G stopping my heart again

The roof of the lighthouse is barely visible here

We explored a lot, and climbed some more, and walked on the beach even more, until it was finally time for us to start back in order to safely return to Princess Cays in time for the last tender at 3pm. We climbed back up the rocks to the lighthouse and then down the hill on the other side and across the tidal pools. G kept asking me if I thought we should hitch a ride back with Eleuthera Tours, but I didn't want to (just what was in that Ambien?). We hadn't had any issues so far, and, though the walk back is always harder (it's a slight but constant uphill), I knew we could do it. Then (and this part will be debated forever), G, who is as surefooted as a mountain goat and who had just been scaling all sorts of coral cliffs where a fall would have been fatal, had one foot slip into tidal pool. He slipped on a relatively flat surface. Slipped!  He was fine, of course, but his left shoe and sock were soaked. 

I was, and am, highly suspicious. At that point, we had no other option than to hitch a ride back to Princess Cays. He would have had blisters on blisters if we walked.  This also gave us another hour to explore the Caribbean beach where Eleuthera Tours was just finishing their beach barbecue. We had a blast, talking with the tour participants and Kristel and further exploring the beach, secure in the knowledge that we could expend as much energy as we wanted...we were riding back in style. 

We were on the second last tender back to the Emerald Princess just before 3pm. It had been a wonderful day with beautiful scenery, and we weren't even tired. We showered and went up to Skywalkers to watch sailaway and look at our many photos from the day. It was even herbed goat cheese night at the PES Lounge. We hadn't eaten since breakfast and were starved. Still, we ate just enough to take the edge off the hunger pains and went to dinner at 5:30pm, where it was Italian night.  Italian night with penne arribiata and chicken strips accompanied by a glass of Merlot after a day with lots of exercise is like a dream come true for me. I also had the seafood antipasto and a delicious salad with pine nuts and pecorino cheese...and limoncello sorbet for dessert, of course. What a feast!!

We went from dinner to the Princess Theater for the 8pm performance of production show I Got the Music. Then, while G stopped in Club Fusion to listen to a music trivia being run by Deputy Cruise Director Frenchie, I took the elevator up to the jogging track on Deck 19 for a look at tonight's beautiful moon (it is full?) shining on the ocean. And I was instantly reminded of that night five months ago, watching the super moon in September glisten on the water as the Pacific Princess cruised around the islands of Moorea and Tahiti. This has been an amazing winter. We really are living the dream this year. And I'm so glad that, although we are nearing the end, it's not over yet.

My night of sleep had changed everything. 

Life is good. :-)

Lighthouse Beach, Eleuthera

Day 79: Princess Cays

Prepared Friday evening, January 18th but published the next day while in Fort Lauderdale due to all the photos. 

It was time, today, to do that hike to the southern tip of Eleuthera that we'd postponed from last cruise. When we first woke up, G turned the TV to the Wake Show, and cruise director JJ was saying "73 to 75 degrees today and partly cloudy" and we knew we had a perfect day for a hike. 

We didn't dawdle, but had a quick breakfast at the Cafe Caribe, which is the mini-buffet aft of the Horizon Court Buffet just above our cabin. We packed the backpack, removing any extraneous items and filling it with as many water bottles as it could hold. There were so many Elites on board that we were asked to go to Explorers Lounge to be assigned to tender boats, but we didn't even have to slow down there, and were on one of the first tenders over to the island. The wind was coming from the north, and was a bit chilly, but the air was moist. G said it reminded him of mornings on Fort Lewis (everything reminds him of some fort somewhere). It was perfect walking weather. 

We timed our walk...15 minutes to the first turn off, 15 minutes to the next turn off, and then 35 minutes or so to reach the beach on the Caribbean side. 

Leaving Princess Cays...

...and turning right onto the road that goes past Princess Cays. This is the only decent road on this hike. 

Next we turned left onto the first (only) "road" that cuts off. This road starts out decently but quickly turns rough. 

This cross road eventually ends into another north-south road. The Lighthouse Beach sign appears immediately on the left, but it's another 30-45 minutes to get there. 

On the way we passed two brackish ponds. Each had a sign about the water fowl and birds that could be seen there. 

Our favorite is the Kirtland Warbler, which migrates each winter all the way from Michigan!

We were almost to the beach when we were passed by the 4x4 tour returning to the ship. We had mixed feelings about sharing "our" secret place with a ship's tour, but they were gone by the time we got to the beach and lighthouse, so it really wasn't an issue at all, and, in fact, we liked the security that having them there provides. Otherwise, we go 5 hours without seeing...anyone. 

The first view of the beach is a thrill second only to the first view of the ship upon our return. 

Almost immediately, G spotted a tiny sea biscuit in the sand. This is the same beach where I found a perfect sand dollar lying on the sand two years ago, so we're always on the lookout for treasures. 

We walked the length of the beach on the Caribbean side, over the tidal pools on the far end to reach a path to take us up the hill to the lighthouse.  

Nothing has changed at the lighthouse...thankfully. I was afraid that, with Princess running the 4x4 tour down there, they might have blocked off the lighthouse or reinforced its rotting floorboards, but that wasn't the case. 

We climbed along the rocky cliffs enjoying the amazing views in all directions.  How old are we??

Finally, we did see one change, and it was a welcome one. As we climbed down the rocks to the Atlantic beach, there was a rope handrail there to help us along the way. 

Those spectacular coral cliffs and caves greeted us on the other side...

...and the oh-so-blue of the Atlantic crashing on the powdered sugar sand of the beach that goes north for miles.

We continued exploring the caves (G was stopping my heart by climbing out on every precipice) before finally having a rest on the beach.

We couldn't rest for long...we have to watch the clock pretty closely to allow us extra time on the return when we're tired and it's mostly uphill. We climbed over the dune and skirted around the back side of the hill the lighthouse is located on to connect back to the road.

Unfortunately, the sun chose that moment to come out, and it was warm on the walk back. I had thought we might for once return with an extra water bottle or two, but no, we drank it all by the time we arrived back at Princess Cays. The happiest moment of the day was our first glimpse of the Emerald Princess as we made the turn into Princess Cays. We had walked around 8 miles and climbed a lots of cliffs, but, thankfully, did it safely and without incident.

We tendered back to the ship and G immediately made his way to a hot tub. I, of course, unpacked and rinsed and washed and generally got things cleaned up. And then I collapsed on the bed, where I stayed until it was time to get cleaned up for the evening. 

We started at Skywalkers with friends and a Breeza Marina (I really felt I had earned it). I had to decide:  stand up and walk over to the hors doerves table to get some food for the first time since breakfast...or just sit there. I just sat there. I was that tired. Plus I knew that tonight there were mussels on the menu. Darko brought me two orders of them without the French fries, and I had the watermelon and feta appetizer for dessert, and a glass of wine and felt myself relaxing. 

Still, we made it to the Princess Theater for the second performance by comedian-magician Ben Seidman. It's not my favorite type of entertainment, but I think he's one of the best I've ever seen.  We had hoped to make it to the 10:15 crew talent show, but now know there is NO WAY. G is already asleep at 9pm, and I will be soon. 

We are one of seven ships in Fort Lauderdale tomorrow (we saw the Holland America Westerdam 15 miles away at Half Moon Cay today when we were at the lighthouse today, and are following it into Port Everglades). We'll be at Pier 19, which doesn't accommodate our plans for the day at all, but we'll make it work by catching a shuttle back to Pier 2 and then walking down to Great Clips and Starbucks. 

Providing, of course, we can even move tomorrow. ;-)