Monday, October 22, 2018

Day 4: Le Havre/Paris

The alarm sounded at 5:30am, and we didn’t exactly leap out of bed, but we at least managed to avoid hitting the snooze button. By 6am I was showered and in the Horizon Court Buffet for a quick breakfast. It helped that there were already many others up there too; G said that, at last night’s show, Cruise Director Paul Chandler-Burns had commented on the number of passengers going to Paris today (I think it was 1700). These Paris excursions, whether guided or on your own, are long days with early departures. 

G and I caught up with each other (having T-Mobile cellular connected us to Orange in France, and we could easily text each other) and were in the Explorers Lounge at 7:15am. By 7:45am we were on a bus leaving the port of Le Havre, roughly a three hour drive from Paris. We had chosen to do Princess tour ‘Paris On Your Own, which basically covers your transportation to and from the city and a small map. There was no reliable way for use to arrange our own transport to Paris by train, so it was logical to book this tour through Princess. 

I was actually surprised that G wanted to do this excursion. I thought he’d be averse to the long bus ride and also have more of an interest in the Normandy beaches, but, no, he had two major requests: to see the Arc de Triomphe and go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. Not knowing exactly how much time we would have on our own in Paris, I tentatively added Notre Dame Cathedral to the plan, as well as a walk by some other sites on our way back to the bus parked on Cours de la Reine. I purchased the Eiffel Tower tickets online in late August to avoid the purchase line today, but still didn’t know how much time would be required there; hence, the rest of our day needed to be flexible. 

G and I were seated together on the bus, and before we even left the port, the man in front of me reclined his seat so much I heard it pop, and my knees were forced up to my nostrils. After a few minutes of this, I spotted an empty seat at the back, and moved over to it, only to learn the man of the couple in the row in front of it had done the same. Still, I had two seats to use there, and survived with my body in one and my legs and feet in another. G slept most of the way to Paris, but, predictably, I did not. Instead I used the time to contemplate the yet another difference between men and women. From my vantage point at the back of the bus, I could see that nearly every man (including my own husband) was fully reclined in his seat, while nearly all the women weren’t. Is this because women are more acceptable of discomfort or because they are more careful to not cause others discomfort?  I wonder…

From the start, the weather wasn’t promising. Though it was pitch dark when we boarded the bus, and it didn’t get light until nearly an hour into our trip, it was foggy and windy, and rain varying from a mist to a drizzle was falling. We made a pit stop about two hours into our trip, but so did all the other Princess-contracted buses to Paris, and using a bathroom was a hopeless cause. That’s when I acquainted myself with the toilet on the bus, and that was an experience one does not enjoy every day. But it was clean, and for that I was grateful. 

I guess I have to return to the European ways I learned in the Med two years ago:  drink water sparingly and carry urinary euros and toilet paper. 

We arrived in Paris about 11am and our driver drove us by the Arc de Triomphe, and I was very thankful for that in the end, because we never would have gotten there if he hadn’t and that was one of G’s must do’s. 


L’Arc de Triomphe

We arrived at our bus parking spot about 11:15am. We were dropped off just south of Le Petit Palais and the Winston Churchill memorial on Cours de la Reine. Our tickets for the Eiffel Tower were for 12:30pm, so we decided to just head that way on foot. Within three minutes on Pont (bridge) Alexandre III, we were accosted by youths who held pieces of cardboard in front of our faces to fluster and disorient us so they could pick our pockets. However, we aren’t easily fluster-able, and simply pushed by them. My money was securely in a money belt anyway; I had less than €5 in my pocket for quick cash. Then, as soon as we left the bridge and were walking along the Seine, a lady tried to pull the “I found a ring. Is it yours?” trick. Twice within about 5 minutes!  We must look like easy marks…but we’re not. 

Pont Alexandre III with the Tour Eiffel 

Pont Alexandre III with Hôtel des Invalides in background

The rain had stopped by then, though it remained cold and very windy and dreary. Still, although I’ve seen it before, it is still exciting to get glimpses of the Eiffel Tower appearing above the apartment buildings when walking toward it. 

I love this view from the base looking up



It had been 18 years ago in June when I had last taken the elevator to the top of the Eiffel Tower, and I sure don’t remember crowds like today’s, nor the level of security scrutiny we faced. We had to pass through security to even enter the area around the base, and again before we went up the south corner. We waited in line probably less than 30 minutes, which I know would be considered great in the summer,  but it felt quite claustrophobic to me. And, naturally, those sideways elevators aren’t exactly roomy. We were packed in like sardines to the second level, when we switched elevators and took another straight up to the top. 

When we had first arrived in Paris, the top of the tower was shrouded in fog, but, fortunately, it was clear when we reached the outdoor observation deck that’s as high as the public can go. I was rather surprised by how my photos turned out (the camera on this new iPhone is remarkably improved).


Looking toward the Louvre


L’Ecole Militaire


Notre Dame Cathedral mid-photo

Each elevator (two up and two down) required waiting in a queue, and I could see our other plans for the day (Notre Dame and Sainte Chapelle, a walk by the Louvre and through the Tuileries Gardens) quickly slipping out of reach. We had to be back at the bus no later than 3:15pm; we left the Eiffel Tower, walked back along the Seine and barely made it. Oh well. G was very happy because he saw the two things most important to him, and I’ve spent a fair bit of time in Paris already and always count on returning. In fact, today’s weather reminded me of a promise I’ve made to myself but not yet kept: I want to go to Paris alone during the winter and spend days wandering through the various museums there. On my own terms. On my own schedule. Doesn’t that sound heavenly?

The sun started to appear as we made the long drive back to Le Havre and the Sapphire Princess. In fact, it was quite clear by the time we reached the coast. It’s too bad it just didn’t improve while we were still in Paris. 


Our first hint of sun on the gently rolling hills outside of Paris.  Better late than never!
It was sunny by the time we returned to Le Havre. 

We had obviously missed our 5:30pm dinner seating in the International Restaurant, but Generoso, who knew that tonight's attendance in the dining room would be light, had a table for us at the 8pm seating. We couldn’t quite wait (it had been over 12 hours since we”d eaten) and went to the Horizon Court Buffet for a light pre-dinner, and then to the dining room where G had four starters and I had three and we called it dinner. 

G is out watching the late show featuring a Britush comedian. I have showered and removed contacts and am happily in bed blogging with one eye on the huge, wonderful on-demand TV in our cabin. I have much to write about the Sapphire Princess (and how much we are loving it), but it will have to wait until tomorrow. My other goal for tomorrow:  spend time finding the things I know I packed, but that seem to have disappeared. 

BTW, photos tonight are courtesy of Orange cellular in France (much faster than what we had in England) and that three hour bus ride back to the ship.