Day 41: Tauranga

We will always remember Thanksgiving Day 2017 for many reasons: the perfect weather we enjoyed in Tauranga (say Tow-wronger), the spectacular scenery that started right at the ship’s gangway but most especially for the fact that we survived a climb to the top of Mt. Maunganui (Maori name of Mauao, but known locally as The Mount), and, even more impressively, made it back down alive. 

After our short day yesterday, I spent some time reviewing our options for today. When I was here in 2014 with my friend Sheila (hi Sheila!), we did a full day excursion taking in the geysers of Rotorua, about 100km away, the Agrodome where we saw sheep shearing and learned about New Zealand agriculture, saw a Maori folkloric show and toured a town buried by a volcano in the early 1900s. It was a very long and most enjoyable day, but I knew it was not one that G would enjoy. He was underimpressed with the idea of the geysers of Rotorua after several visits to Yellowstone National Park, we’ve already enjoyed the Maori folkloric activities offered on the ship, he hates long rides in vans on group tours, and sheep shearing?? No way.  But I knew he would love climbing the 2 to 3 million old lava done overlooking the port of Tauranga. Surprisingly, I wanted to climb it too. 

The weather today was the best of the good weather we’ve enjoyed all cruise. The brilliantly blue sky was cloudless, and, after a quick breakfast in the Horizon Court Buffet, we left the ship wearing shorts and T-shirts.  Though our itinerary stated that we docked in Tauranga, the port is actually in the small holiday town named Mt. Maunganui after the mountain, basically an isthmus sand bar connecting the lava dome to Tauranga. There was a shuttle offered (I’m not sure of the fare) into downtown Tauranga, but we simply walked out of the port and along the harbor beach to the base of The Mount. There is another beach located right on the ocean just a few blocks away, but the harbor beach was the place for all sorts of water toy rentals like SUPs and kayaks.

The beach along the harbor

Harbor beach and the mall

My favorite kind of shadow

We reached the base of The Mount and were helped by signs showing the different trails in the park. One trail simply circles the base of the lava dome at water level, connecting the several pocket beaches at its base. But we were looking to reach the summit, and took a 4WD trail that started out nicely gentle and shaded but quickly had us doing some serious climbing in the sun. The surface was loose crushed shells on hard packed dirt, which was certainly easily than the rockier path to the top of Mt. Tapioi on Raiatea (remember that death march?), but it got really steep towards the summit. 

Entrance to the park

The Golden Princess at the Port of Tauranga

Getting steeper

Yep, that’s me ;-)

We hiked uphill for about 75 minutes, helped along by the increasingly beautiful views along the way. We saw numerous bays and peninsulas and islands, many bordered by white sand beaches. When we reached the summit, the 360 degree views made it all worthwhile. We had clear views of the narrow isthmus of the town of Mt. Maunganui, with the harbor beach and Golden Princess on one side and the long, long stretch of the ocean beach on the other. 

Matakana Island 

Love that long stretch of beach. 

Mt. Maunganui Beach on the Pacific

Golden Princess and the harbor beach

There was an alternative trail down from the summit that consisted mostly of stairs without handrails, and, though we contemplated going back that way, opted instead to return on the same trail on which we had walked up. We had seen most people returning that way. Well, the downhill is always the killer. The crushed shell surface was so slick that it was a real caution in places. Still, I made it with just a little blood (I slipped twice, but it was so steep that I really just sat down hard. My left elbow took the brunt both times, and I have war wounds to show for it), minimal sweat and no tears. Just The Mount portion of our walk, with some time at the top for photos took about three hours. 

As we returned to the port, we saw these motorcycle-type vehicles that we’ve seen offering tours in all the New Zealand ports. They have a motorcycle front with seats for two or four passengers in the back. They are considered convertible sports cars, and so helmets aren’t required but they do have full seat belts. We’ve been intrigued by them, but I think it was more the opportunity to sit down for the 25-minute tour that had us joining another couple for a ride ($60 NZD/ $42 USD per couple). We rode down the entire length of both the harbor and ocean beaches and also saw the main street of Mt. Maunganui with its shops and cafes. Next time we’re here we’ll explore the ocean beach, weather permitting. 

When we boarded the ship, I synced my Fitbit to see that we had walked over 19000 steps today. Go us!  We were hungry but it was close enough to dinner that we just crashed until it was time to get cleaned up. There was a small Thanksgiving display in the Bernini Dining Room, but nothing Thanksgiving related on the menu. I had a chilled pumpkin curry soup, salad and one of my favorite entrees, garbanzo beans and tofu in a tomato sauce. Oh, and apple ginger sorbet for dessert. ‘Cause I deserved it!

We watched from the Promenade Deck as the last excursion buses returned to the ship a little late, about 6:45pm, and the gangways were removed, and went up to Skywalkers for sail away at 7pm and then sunset. We were just too tired to get to either of the two shows tonight, impressionist Keith Scott in the Vista Lounge (we’ve seen him at least twice already) and production show Let Us Entertain You in the Princess Theater (ditto). Instead we enjoyed the views of The Mount as we sailed past (“We climbed THAT!”) and the sun until it disappeared behind the distant mountains overlooking the Bay of Plenty. 

Day 40: Napier

Like yesterday’s port of Picton, today was the only time this season we’ll be in Napier, our first stop on New Zealand’s North Island. Fortunately, though the morning offered the predictable low cloud cover, it burned off rather quickly and by noon became mostly sunny. For the first time in New Zealand, we left behind the coats and wore just fleeces. 

After a quick breakfast in the Horizon Court Buffet (apple wedges with peanut butter and pumpkin seeds again for me), we went to the Bernini Dining Room to get numbers apportioning us off for a shuttle ride out of the port. Like all of these ports so far in New Zealand, the Golden Princess docked at a working freight port, and, just like in the other ports, there were hundreds of piles of logs, with trucks bringing more in all day. 

We were dropped at the tourist information center on the waterfront. The water color was the same amazing opaque blue-green color we had seen in Akaroa, and there we were told it was caused by glacial silt. Along with the black volcanic sand beach, it made for stunning views. 

Akaroa has just over 50000 residents, and is known for the extensive use of Art Deco styling in its buildings. The reason for this is simple: the town was basically wiped out by an earthquake in 1931, but the residents valiantly rebuilt in the style of the day, which was Art Deco. There were several cars from the 1930s being used for city tours, and local volunteers were dressed in period clothing.  

The surrounding region features many vineyards, and, in a previous life, we would have enjoyed taking a wine tour, but today we simply spent a couple of hours walking around the town (I was most impressed by the city square carillon, which played every 30 minutes). There were a lot of shops and restaurants, and a small aquarium and not a lot else. Most ship excursions offered city tours or winery tours or adventure tours in the surrounding area, such as Class 2 river rafting (not too adventurous). 

It’s kind of kitschy, but they take it seriously...

The waterfront was so beautiful that, when it came time to return to the ship, we opted to skip the shuttle and walk back on the adjacent boardwalk, which is part of the extensive multi-use Hawke’s Bay trail system. No need to go to the fitness center to get the daily steps in!  We had no trouble at all until we reached the port security gate, and then we were asked to board a returning shuttle for the last 150 yards or so. We were back on the ship for lunch, and, because today was a short day (on board time was 2:30pm for a 3pm departure), lunch was being served in the Donatello Dining Room, so we dined there (salmon on salad with green beans and new potatoes). 

That’s a truly black sand beach!

View from the Terrace Deck

The day had turned really nice by then, so I sat in the shade on the Terrace Deck and phoned Mom and used cellular internet while G held down a hot tub up above on Deck 16.  Sail away was beautiful;  Captain D remarked again today about the stellar weather we’ve enjoyed this cruise in New Zealand. Some clouds, sure, but no heavy rain and no wind. We’ve been very fortunate. 

I had missed the fact the today was a formal night, but G spotted it in the Patter, so we had another major clean up for a formal photo and went to dinner in the Bernini Dining Room with a beautiful view of the eastern New Zealand coast right outside our window. We love the late sunsets we’ve been enjoying on this cruise! Headwaiter Dian told me my entree choice tonight couldn’t be made vegan so he brought me a large plate of roasted vegetables. I’ve only had that issue once before, on our first cruise, and I suspect it was with the same entree item. I’m glad that they are taking my dietary needs so seriously. 

Smoked salmon rosette

New Zealand vocalist Chris Powley was back tonight in the Princess Theater. We had seen him perform on our first cruise, and were blown away by his talent. He received another standing O tonight, and will be doing a different show again later in the cruise. G is out watching Irish comedian George Casey’s show in the Vista Lounge, but we had seen him perform last year on the Pacific Princess and I opted to skip it (‘nuff said). Instead I am tucked into bed to recharge for three more ports this cruise. Fortunately, we have already visited two of them in the past, and won’t feel like we’ll need to have long days of sightseeing.  

Princess Festivals of the World

Maori Matatiki festival in the Piazza

Tomorrow, November 23, is American Thanksgiving Day, and this is the first time we’ve celebrated it on a ship where Americans make up a small minority of the passengers (150 out of 2600). I don’t expect that we’ll see any celebration of the holiday on board, and that’s fine with us. We don’t need public acknowledgement of the day to know that we have a lot to be thankful for this year. But I wish all of you who celebrate the holiday a safe and Happy Thanksgiving!

Day 39: Picton

This post will hopefully be brief tonight, not because we didn’t have a fantastic day (we did), but because it was a simple day that can be described in few words. Today’s port of Picton is a small town that serves as a gateway to the South Island, with large interisland ferries connecting it to Wellington, the southernmost city on the North Island. It is a tourist haven, and, due to the many hiking trails (called tracks) in the area, hosts a lot of backpackers, with hotels advertising beds for $20 NZD ($14 USD) per night. This was the Golden Princess’ maiden call to Picton. It was also the only time we’ll stop here this season; our next cruise to New Zealand has slightly different ports.  

I was dragging this morning, even more than I was dragging yesterday morning (before we hiked up and down the hillsides of the Banks Peninsula for hours). We had no firm plans for the day, but the research we had done yesterday evening while we still had cellular internet indicated that today’s port, Picton, was either a walk around port or one best viewed from the water. G was up and out early again, and wanted to walk off the ship as soon as it was docked to check out the availability of local tours. I sent him off with a request to find a boat tour where we could sit and have the scenery come to us. 

A common site in New Zealand ports

I was in the Horizon Court Buffet eating breakfast (I broke with tradition today and had apple segments dipped in peanut butter and topped with pumpkin seeds) with my iPhone connected to the local cellular network. We are using an app called Zello which functions like a walkie talkie when we are both on the internet, and G stayed in touch with me as he boarded a shuttle bus for the 10 minute ride from the freight port to the center of Picton. After a short time he asked me come into town, bring a credit card and dress warmly.

We were greeted by locals and gifted corsages

Picton waterfront. I still haven’t mentally reconciled palm trees and chilly weather. 

Loved these!

He met me as soon as I got off the bus, and was carrying a grocery sack with a bag of potato chips and air popped popcorn for snacks and Cokes and a water bottle. We walked around the harbor to a small office where we purchased tickets for a three-hour scenic boat ride on the Marlborough Sounds, the expansive waterways on the northern border of the South Island of New Zealand. The tour is called the Captain Cook Mail Boat tour, and cost $80 NZD ($56 USD) per person. The boat was fantastic, and provided a comfortable ride, with an enclosed area below and open seating on the upper deck. 

Mail Boat Cruises

A view of the Golden Princess

The day was mostly overcast, with temps in the high 50s, and though we occasionally saw the sun, it never cleared up in the afternoon as it had in Port Chalmers and Akaroa. Still, the hills surrounding the many inlets were beautiful. We received a great narrative for the first half of the trip, discussing the history and geology of the region and had the opportunity to see New Zealand King Comorants, New Zealand Fur Seals, two dolphins and, thrill of thrills, several blue penguins in a cluster on the water’s surface. Our captain/narrator told us that was almost unheard of, to see them socializing like that mid day. 

The burned trees are a non-native species they are trying to eradicate from New Zealand. 

Socializing blue penguins

New Zealand King Cormorant

Our intended destination was the Cook Monument at Ship Cove, where Captain Cook first came ashore in his boat Endeavour in 1770 and then landed four more times over the next three years. It is reachable only by boat, and, in addition to the monument, there was some informative signage there explaining the history and significance of the cove. We had about 20 minutes to explore that area and then re-boarded the boat for the ride back to Picton. 

Our route through the Marlborough Sounds

The Marlborough Sounds

Outward Bound sailing school boat

The CookMonument 

Cannon from the Resolution

Variable oystercatcher, endemic to New Zealand

It was the perfect excursion after two busy days, and held more appeal than simply walking around the shops of Picton. We boarded a shuttle back to the port and collapsed for a hour in our cabin before we needed to get cleaned up for dinner. 

Tonight was the Most Traveled Guest cocktail party for this cruise. The string of port days plus the fact that Captain D is leaving us in two days precluded a luncheon, and I was very happy about that. The party was held in Skywalkers at 7pm, though we stayed and chatted with new Staff Captain Mario until nearly 9pm. What a nice guy! 

After a quick stop in the Horizon Court Buffet for a cup of hot water to make rooibos tea, we decided sleep was more appealing than seeing Steve Larkins second Mercury Rising show at 9:45pm (though it was a tough choice). We still have four more port days in a row; this New Zealand cruise is not for sissies!