We had set the alarm for 6:30am this morning. but were already up anyway. Our 'early to bed' last night had paid off, and we were feeling well rested and ready for a big day. We were still in bed when we spotted this gorgeous sunrise on the ship's webcam, and so hurriedly dressed and ran up on Deck 11 to catch it in person.
While we were waiting for Sabatinis to open for breakfast at 7:30am, G captured these pics of Mauna Kea showing how clear the morning was.
Look closely on the next one and you'll even see the observatories at the top of the mountain.
We made breakfast in Sabatinis quick and easy: fresh squeezed OJ, fruit plates and omelettes. There are so many yummy things to try on the menu, but we needed to have simple, nourishing food today, because we had a big day planned: a Princess excursion to the summit of Mauna Kea, Hawaii's largest dormant volcano, 13,796 feet above sea level. When the height of Mauna Kea from its base on the ocean floor is considered, Mauna Kea is the world's tallest mountain, 32,696 feet tall.
Our group of eight passengers met our guide Ikaika, a 30-year old Big Island native. His name in Hawaiian means 'the helmet worn as protective headgear by warriors'. He was a wonderful tour leader, and was also the driver of our 4WD van.
Our first stop while on our way out of Hilo was Rainbow Falls, created by an 80 foot drop of the Wailuka River and named because of the rainbow that can be seen when the sun shines (so, not too often in rainy Hilo, but, luckily for us, this morning).
Shortly after leaving Hilo, we started driving across Saddle Road, the trans-island road that bisects the Big Island from east to west. G and I had driven across Saddle Road 20 years ago, on our first visit to the Big Island. Actually, when we had picked up our rental car then, there were a list of places and roads where we were forbidden to take our car under threat of great monetary penalty. Those places became our to-do list of things to see. ;-). Ikaika told us that Saddle Road had been considerably improved in 2008 and rental cars are now allowed to be driven as high as the Mauna Kea Visitors Center at 9200 feet. See, we were just 20 years ahead of our time!
By the time we reached the Visitors Center, we were already above the clouds.
Looking toward the summit from the Visitors Center.
The Visitors Center has been renamed in honor of astronaut Ellison Onizuka, a Hawaiian who was killed in the Challenger explosion in 1986.
The Hawaii flag flown upside-down as a symbol of distress
We had read before we left home, and knew to expect, protesters who have been living near the Visitors Center in opposition to a 14th telescope, 18 stories high, that is planned for the summit of Mauna Kea. Hawaiians consider Mauna Kea to be the doorway to heaven, and while they are tolerating the 13 telescopes already in place, feel that no more should be constructed. Also, the proposed new telescope will be excavated two stories into the mountain, the first time the Mauna Kea has been desecrated like that. We walked over and talked to the protestors to give them our support, and they said that, until last night, they had been allowed to camp there on the mountain but that, effective today, they can only spend daylight hours there. Google TMT Mauna Kea for more extensive information on the dispute.
We encountered our first rain as we continued on the road to the top of the mountain. The road is paved to the Visitors Center, but quickly and significantly deteriorates after that. In fact, it was really quite rough and I was getting nervous about a surprise G had planned for the top (more on that later). The clouds would quickly move in and then pass by, over and over again. Eventually, the road became paved again, in perfect condition. Ikaika told us this was for two reasons: first, the rough road discouraged people from trying to drive to the summit in anything less than a 4WD vehicle. And the paved section near the top reduces road dust which would interfere with the telescopes in the observatories.
This was G's goal for our summit visit: to pop the cork on a bottle of (ring toss) champagne. He had asked Ikaika for permission and Ikaika loved the idea. He said that he'd seen people drink beer at the top, but never champagne. The champagne had been in my backpack at my feet in the van and as we climbed in altitude and hit that rough road, I was getting nervous that it would blow its cork and take out my leg at the same time. G had brought enough paper cups for everyone and we had a fun time celebrating, quickly, before the bubbly lost its fizz. It wasn't the highest altitude G and I have been to, but it was the first time we've gone from sea level to almost 14000 feet in one day, and it was certainly the first time we've been atop the world's tallest mountain.
A beautiful mural of a sunrise as seen from the summit of Mauna Kea, displayed in the Keck observatory.
A panoramic view of the summit from the Keck Observatory.
One of the passengers had trouble breathing at the top, and Ikaika was well prepared with a small container of oxygen and a mask for him to wear. We had been warned when we signed up for the excursion about the thin air, and heart patients and pregnant women were not allowed on the tour, but it's hard to know how your body will react until you reach that altitude.
We eventually returned to the Visitors Center where Ikaika served us a simple lunch of a turkey roll sandwich, chips and cookies. We started eating at the picnic tables there, but were quickly chased into the van by a sleet-y rain. And that set the tone for the rest of the afternoon. It rained the entire way back to Hilo, but we didn't care. We had seen what we came for, and had a clear view at the summit of Mauna Kea.
Once back on the ship, we rested a bit and enjoyed our last hour or so of free internet for awhile (weep!) before we sailed at 4pm. As for photos...they will be few and far between from here on out. I also had one last phone conversation with Mom (more weep). It was tough to put my iPhone in Airplane Mode knowing it will be months before I turn it off, but traveling in French Polynesia is a pretty good trade off.
Captain D said, in his 'welcome back on board' announcement that Hilo had definitely had more rain than had been forecasted. Fortunately, the sun came out just in time for our last sail away before five days at sea. Captain D predicted a little bounciness for the next day and half, but nothing significant (his idea of what's significant and ours might differ). I'm also grateful for five days at sea; our days in Hawaii have been busy ones.
We were feeling so lazy that we skipped the Elite Lounge and went directly to dinner at 5:30pm. I ate fitfully, and dear Henry kept bringing additional dishes hoping something would appeal, so I ate a couple of bites of about six different things. It was all good, but I think our large breakfasts in Sabatinis are simply enough to see me through the entire day.
The sea swell picked up as soon as we left Hilo harbor. Seasick bags are out everywhere but I'm feeling brave enough to go to mentalist Carl Andrew's show tonight. We'll see how long I survive in the Cabaret Lounge in bouncy seas.