The first post of each season:

Monday, August 20, 2012

Cruising up Tarr Inlet

After breakfast, the Island Princess started up the Tarr Inlet toward the Grand Pacific Glacier and the Margerie Glacier. Yes, I knew that Captain Binetti would turn the ship 360 degrees in front of each glacier allowing views for everyone, but I wanted the full effect of cruising up the Tarr Inlet as it closed in around us. I went back to our cabin and put on all the layers I'd brought- fleece vest under fleece pullover under Goretex jacket with hood, ear covers, wool head band and gloves- and I was still freezing standing on the open deck at the front of Caribe Deck. My endurance paid off; we saw a brown bear walking along the waterfront, a bald eagle perched on an iceberg and a puffin just in front of the ship. The sun was shining brightly, the sky was blue and we could see the tops of all the tall peaks surrounding us. We continued to cruise toward the Grand Pacific Glacier, the huge glacier not currently reaching the water at the very end of the inlet.

We stopped facing Margerie Glacier for about an hour as the ship slowly rotated. We saw the glacier calve several times as I stood on the front of the ship; eventually, I made my way back to our cabin for what I knew would be a perfect view from our balcony.

G was waiting for me with a single long stemmed rose he had just purchased. So sweet! And the view through our balcony door was nothing short of perfect. Together we sat on our deck as the glacier calved time and again. We'd first hear the crack, then see the shower of ice as it fell down the face of the glacier, and then hear the loud, echoing splash as it hit the water.

Even protected on our balcony, we were well bundled. It was bright and sunny, but oh so cold. The Island Princess then cruised back down the Tarr Inlet to the John Hopkins Inlet and the Lamplugh Glacier. By the time we'd reached it, about 11:45am, we could see clouds settling in around the very highest mountain tops. We did another 360 degree turn (I viewed this one from our balcony as I was chilled through) and then went to lunch in the dining room where dear headwaiter Roberto had us seated at a table for four set for two so we could both look out the windows at the expansive views as we began the 55-mile cruise south out of the park. About that time, we saw the Sapphire Princess making her way up the inlet. Only two cruise ships per day are allowed in Glacier Bay National park, and they are generally Princess or Holland America ships. I can strongly recommend Princess for this cruise; they have it all down to a science.

It took hot soup, pasta and three cups of coffee to finally warm me up. In lieu of the lectures taking place this afternoon, we've chosen to return to our cabin for a bit of a rest before wine tasting at 3pm. Around 2:30pm we'll be entering the area of a high level of humpback whales, and so we'll want to be on our balcony once again for that.